Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
By the English method, the leather is not, as a rule, transferred
immediately from one pit to another, as it is found preferable to lay
the hides in pile for a few hours, by which means the great weight
helps to force the tannin through them. By draining the hides, they
are in good condition for the absorption of the next tan liquor.
The English method of handling is too slow for most of the American
tanneries, where the greater proportion of the hides are cut straight
down the centre to form "sides," as they are technically known. In
America, the pieces of leather, whether hides, butts, bellies, or
shoulders, are often tied together and transferred from one pit
to another by means of a skeleton reel, worked either by hand or
mechanically. The latest type of reel is a great improvement on the
old reel. The cost of manual labour in many English tanneries is
very great, in view of the fact that the hides have to pass through
many pits, and the work of transferring the hides from one pit to
another is done entirely by hand. It seems that there is plenty of
scope for mechanical ingenuity in overcoming this difficulty, and it
may yet be found possible to construct a perforated brass platform,
connected with a crane, by which the whole of the hides could be
lifted out in a second, left to drain for half an hour or more, and
then bodily transferred to, and lowered in, the next pit. Naturally,
it is easier, and quite within the bounds of practicability, to raise
the hides from suspenders by mechanical power, as it would not be
difficult to fix a stout cross-beam to the pulley from which the
hides are suspended. The leather can be safely treated with very
astringent tannin in the last series of pits, and the use of strong
extracts is, therefore, a common practice at that stage, not only to
give solidity and firmness to the leather, but to increase its weight.
It would be quite fatal to the production of good leather if strong
tannins were used in the early stages of the process, because the
surface on both sides would tan quickly, the grain of the hide would
be badly drawn owing to the sensitiveness of gelatine to astringent
solutions, and it would be impossible to make the tannin penetrate
the hide. The final product would be a half-tanned leather which
would be extremely brittle and poor in quality; in fact, quite
unsuitable for sole leather. Despite the well-known axiom that the
vegetable tannage (but not the mineral) must proceed slowly and
gradually in the early stages of the process if the hides are to be
properly tanned, the modern tendency is to speed up the tanning, with
the result that, in some cases, the so-called sole leather is really
not fit for the purpose for which it is intended. The root of the
evil is the desperate attempt made by many boot manufacturers to
produce lower-priced boots than those of their competitors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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