Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
It seems that the aid of the engineer is necessary to overcome the
difficulty of looseness of the grain caused by the severe pounding of
the hides in the drums. The constant circulation of the tan liquor is
required, but the hides should only be subjected to gentle motion.
It is true there are tanning drums on the market which are said to
obviate all the difficulty found in making sole leather in ordinary
drums fitted with shelves or pegs, but a drum that meets the ideal
conditions for the production of a solid yet flexible sole leather
has not yet been invented. It seems that a kind of inner framework,
to which the hides can be attached and which rotates much more slowly
than the main drum, may solve the problem. The drum tannage permits
the use of an excessive quantity of tannin, which, of course, adds to
the weight of the leather. By the drum method of tanning, heavy hides
can be tanned in two days after leaving the colouring pits; lighter
hides are, naturally, tanned in less time, proportionate to their
substance. The pit method occupies any time from one to fifteen
months, although nowadays very few hides are left in the tan pits for
a year.
The methods of tanning just described relate chiefly to sole
leather, but there is an enormous production of leather known as
dressing hides, which are tanned, dried in the rough state, and
sent to curriers or leather dressers for finishing. These hides are
used for numerous purposes, including bags, portmanteaus, harness,
saddlery, straps, belting, and boot uppers. The tannage of dressing
hides differs slightly from that of sole leather; the liquors must
be mellower and contain less insoluble matter, in order to obtain
the necessary pliability, and a good, clear colour on the grain.
A satisfactory tannage is obtained by treating the hides in oak
bark liquors, which, in the later stages of the process, may be
strengthened with oak wood, or myrobalan extract, or pure gambier,
and completing the process in a tepid bath of sumach, which clears
and lightens the colour. The drum is more suitable for the tannage of
dressing hides than it is for sole leather. A quick method of drum
tanning would be to treat the hides first in a 5 per cent. solution
of neradol, the artificial tannin, and then complete the process
with oakwood, chestnut, or quebracho extracts, or even in mixtures
of these extracts. In this way, fairly good leather could be made in
about two days. Neradol prevents the drawn grain and dark coloration
that would result from the use of vegetable extracts alone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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