Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
Formerly, the finishing of sole leather was a fairly easy matter, as
the slow process of tanning with oak bark which was in general use
gave the latter a nice fawn colour. The modern tendency, however,
is to demand even lighter-coloured leather than that produced by an
oak bark tannage, and, as most of the mixed tannages impart a darker
colour, the practice of bleaching has been universally adopted. This
process is to be greatly deprecated, since it reduces the strength
of the leather. Further, it has the serious drawback of removing
matters which would add to the waterproof quality of the leather, and
yet the boot manufacturers demand light-coloured sole leather. As in
many other articles of modern manufacture, quality is sacrificed for
appearance. The colour of sole leather is of no importance whatever
to the wearer of the boot, and the public should make a strong
protest against bleached sole leather, and also against leather
weighted with adulterants, if they wish to get boots of good wearing
quality. It is difficult to know where the finishing of some of the
modern sole leather begins. Formerly, the line of demarcation between
tanning and finishing was distinct, for the finishing processes were
begun as soon as the hides were sufficiently tanned. This is by no
means the case to-day, as, in many cases, the finishing may be said
to begin with a supplementary but unnecessary tannage in very strong
tanning extracts, with the object of making the leather firm and
plump, and, incidentally, imparting additional weight. This practice
would be discontinued if sole leather were sold by superficial
measurement. On the other hand, those who favour the continuance of
the present system of selling by weight assert that the adoption of
the measurement system would indubitably result in the production of
a lot of under-tanned leather, that mechanical means would be devised
to stretch the leather and thus give it an artificial area, and that
a fair quantity of the leather produced does not lie flat, and
would, therefore, be difficult to measure correctly. A great point in
favour of selling by measurement is that there would be no necessity
to weight the leather, and a mere visual examination would suffice
to determine the quality, whereas it is often difficult to state
whether leather has been treated with injurious artificial matters
or not, and certainly impossible to determine the extent of this
fraud, without a careful and somewhat elaborate analysis. Of course,
there are some rough practical tests for ascertaining the quality of
sole leather, especially in regard to the extent of its resistance
to water. A weighed quantity of the leather is soaked in water for
twenty-four hours, taken out, squeezed, dried, and reweighed. If
the loss of weight does not exceed 5 per cent., the leather is a
good sample and well tanned; on the other hand, it does not follow
that a loss, say, of 40 per cent., would indicate adulteration with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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