Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
If the repairer does not cost his leather as accurately as the
wholesale boot manufacturer, the latter often neglects to take into
account the quality of the leather, so long as cheap soles can be cut
from it.
The continual demand for leather which will yield low-priced
soles has brought about another practice which is much worse than
the use of hot extracts. In this case, the hides are not tanned
thoroughly, but, instead of completing the process with tanning
extracts, the leather is treated with cheap chemicals, such as epsom
salts (magnesium sulphate), glucose, and barium salts. These add
considerable weight and save the cost of expensive tanning materials;
further, it is claimed that they give increased firmness and
substance to the thinner parts of the leather, which otherwise could
not be used for soles. It is conceivable, therefore, that leather
of this kind could be cut to greater advantage than that properly
tanned, but, since this artificial filling is washed out on the first
contact with water and the leather rapidly deteriorates through
attracting and retaining moisture, the fraud of the system is at once
apparent.
Although the use of leather artificially weighted with hygroscopic
chemicals is extremely detrimental to health, it was only during last
year that laws were passed forbidding the adulteration of leather,
and even these are inadequate. Strange to relate, the two countries
where these legal measures have been taken, Australia and South
Africa, enjoy for the most part a hot and dry climate, while it is
in wet weather that adulterated leather is most harmful. However, to
Australia belongs the honour of initiating legal measures against
frauds in leather manufacture, and their praiseworthy action must
soon be copied by other civilised countries.
On the other hand, it would be inadvisable to prohibit the addition
of every other material except those with tanning properties. There
are undoubtedly a few substances which, used in combination with the
tanning materials, add to the strength and value of the leather, and
it is the opinion of some tanners that great developments will take
place in this direction. Certain oils, sulphonated in order to render
them easily miscible with water, and known commercially as "soluble"
oils, exercise a beneficial effect when mixed with the tan liquors,
for they lubricate the fibres of the leather, assist penetration of
and fix the tannin. The time required for the process is, therefore,
much reduced, as strong liquors may be used without harmful effect.
The oil also serves as a lubricant for the fibres, obviates the
harshness and brittleness usually associated with rapidly-tanned
leather, and fixed to the extent of about 3 per cent., must increase
its durability. Best of all, from the tanner's point of view, there
is a moderate increase of weight. There are two or three special
tanning oils on the market.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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