Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
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Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
Leather, either exported or imported, must not contain more than
3 per cent. of glucose unless the percentage is marked on each
consignment, in which case, it is presumed, a tanner may use as
much of the adulterant as he likes, although the fact that he
has to disclose this practice acts as a deterrent in most cases.
Unfortunately, the Australian Act leaves an important loophole, since
the use of Epsom salts, which can be made to increase the weight of
leather more than any other chemical, is not prohibited. In any case,
none of these hygroscopic materials is of any use to chrome sole, for
they would attract moisture which it is desirable to resist.
VACHE SOLE LEATHER
As its name implies, vache sole leather is a Continental product,
being made chiefly in France, Belgium, and Germany. The raw material
consists of light and medium cow hides. The details of working are
somewhat similar to those used in tanning English sole leather,
the main difference being that the hides are suspended in the lime
liquors instead of throwing them in flat. The system of tannage is
not so varied as the English, since the materials used generally
consist of oak and pine barks, myrobalans, quebracho and oak
extracts; and the finishing materials are of quite another character.
The Continental tanners generally use the Réaumur thermometer, while
the Beaumé hydrometer is used to determine the density of the tan
liquors in place of the English barkometer (Fig. 24). One degree
Beaumé is equal to 6.9° barkometer.
Vache leather is more pliable than English sole leather, but the
addition of valonia extract towards the end of the tanning process
would greatly increase its firmness.
The finish is applied to the flesh side of the leather, and a typical
recipe consists of a size such as Irish moss or Tragasol (1 part),
flour (20 parts), china clay (20 parts), and pure gambier (2 parts)
in 200 parts of water. The size is dissolved and cooled, and the
other ingredients are then added.
MACHINE BELTING, HARNESS, AND SADDLERY LEATHERS
These leathers are rarely made by one firm; usually, strap butts and
most kinds of belting leathers are dressed by curriers, whose trade
is quite distinct from that of currying shoe leather. The tanning and
currying of harness and saddlery leathers is another special branch.
Besides these three important trades, there is the dressing of
hydraulic, mechanical, and other industrial leathers, which likewise
form special sections of the heavy leather industry.
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