Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
In tanning hides for belting, the shoulders and bellies are cut off
and usually dressed for sole or harness leather, leaving the butt,
the prime part of the hide, 4-1/2 ft. in length (Fig. 23). The
tanned butt is first shaved to level the substance, then washed in
a solution of borax, and sumached in the drum. After smoothing the
leather in the striking-out machine, it is partially dried ("sammed")
and then rubbed on both sides with a dubbin of cod oil and tallow. In
this condition the butts are left piled up for a few days, so that
the dubbin penetrates the leather, which is then extended with the
sleeker (Fig. 32) to make it smooth and to remove surplus grease,
which is sold to soap-makers under the currier's name of "moisings."
The leather is finally dried, rolled (optional), stretched by
machine, and cut up in the width of belting required. Instead of
"hand-stuffing" the leather with cod oil and tallow, which is still
the best method, a large quantity of butts are now "drum-stuffed,"
the object being to make use of stearines, which are harder and
heavier greases than tallow. The type of drum shown in Figure 35, in
which the grease is incorporated with the leather by means of live
steam, gives satisfactory results, although hot air apparatus is now
replacing the steam injector.
A patent has lately been granted to an American inventor for the
production of a strong and cheap belting. Flesh splits of hides are
simply stuck together with a collodion or nitrocellulose solution.
Any number of layers may be used, according to the substance
required, the only essential quality being that the leather should
be free from grease. The adhesive property of nitrocellulose
solutions is probably stronger than that of any other material, but,
unfortunately, the tough film they form on drying does not grip
a greasy surface. Before the solution used to join the pieces of
leather together is dry, the leather is rolled under heavy pressure,
and, when thoroughly dried, can be cut up for belting.
The dressing of harness leather is similar to the manual process of
making belting, with the exception that the butts or bends (half
butts) are stained either black or a pale straw colour, the latter
being known to the trade as the "London colour." Annatto is often
used to get this colour. The bright, greasy finish on harness leather
is obtained by rubbing buck tallow over the grain and polishing with
a glass sleeker or a piece of flannel. The operation is sometimes
done by machine, in which the working cylinder is covered with pieces
of cotton rag.
Saddlery leathers are dressed on similar lines, but the finish is not
so greasy as harness. Pig skins make the best and toughest leather
for this purpose. They are dressed in a similar manner to harness
hides, but special attention has to be given to pig skins to get rid
of the large quantity of natural grease they contain.
BOOT UPPER LEATHERS
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