Legends of Florence: Collected from the People, First SeriesLeland, Charles Godfrey
History
Legends of Florence: Collected from the People, First Series
Leland, Charles Godfrey
Folk literature, Italian -- Italy -- Florence
They came and went like starry dreams,
For ever moving on,
As darkness takes the starry beams
Unnoted till they’re gone.”
There is something in a bridge, and especially in an old one, which has
been time-worn and mossed into harmony with surrounding nature, which has
always seemed peculiarly poetical or strange to men. Hence so many
legends of devil’s bridges, and it is rather amusing when we reflect how,
as Pontifex, he is thus identified with the head of the Church. Thus I
once, when attending law lectures in Heidelberg in 1847, heard Professor
Mittermaier say, that those who used the saying of “the divine right of
kings” as an argument reminded him of the peasants who assumed that every
old bridge was built by the devil. It is, however, simply the arch,
which in any form is always graceful, and the stream passing through it
like a living thing, which forms the artistic attraction or charm of such
structures. I have mentioned in my “Memoirs” that Ralph Waldo Emerson
was once impressed by a remark, the first time I met him, to the effect
that a vase in a room had the effect of a bridge in a landscape—at least,
he recalled it at once when I met him twenty years later.
The most distinguished bridge, from a legendary point of view, in Europe,
was that of Saint John Nepomuc in Prague—recently washed away owing to
stupid neglect; the government of the city probably not supporting, like
the king in the opera-bouffe of “Barbe Bleu,” a commissioner of bridges.
The most picturesque work of the kind which I recall is that of the Ponte
Maddalena—also a devil’s bridge—at the Bagni di Lucca. That Florence is
not wanting in legends for its bridges appears from the following:
THE SPIRIT OF THE PONTE VECCHIO OR OLD BRIDGE.
“He who passes after midnight on the Ponte Vecchio can always see a form
which acts as guard, sometimes looking like a beggar, sometimes like a
_guardia di sicurezza_, or one of the regular watchmen, and indeed
appearing in many varied forms, but generally as that of a watchman, and
always leaning on the bridge.
“And if the passer-by asks him any such questions as these: ‘Chi
siei?’—‘Cosa fai?’—‘Dove abiti?’—‘Ma vien’ con me?’ That is: ‘Who are
you?’—‘What dost thou do?’—‘Where is your home?’—‘Wilt with me come?’—he
seems unable to utter anything; but if you ask him, ‘Who am I?’ it seems
to delight him, and he bursts into a peal of laughter which is
marvellously loud and ringing, so that the people in the shops waking up
cry, ‘There is the goblin of the Ponte Vecchio at his jests again!’ For
he is a merry sprite, and then they go to sleep, feeling peaceably
assured that he will watch over them as of yore.
“And this he really does for those who are faithful unto him. And those
who believe in spirits should say sincerely:
“‘Spirito del Ponte Vecchio,
Guardami la mia bottega!
Guardami dagli ladroni!
Guardami anche dalla strega!’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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