Leisure hours among the gemsHamlin, Augustus C. (Augustus Choate)
Science
Leisure hours among the gems
Hamlin, Augustus C. (Augustus Choate)
Gems; Precious stones
This custom of using the rough gems prevailed to some extent in recent
times; and De Laet states that as late as the middle of the seventeenth
century rough spinels were preferred to the cut for ornamentation.
However, we will briefly allude to one or two instances in history,
which lead the reader to infer that the diamond received a definite
polish at an early day. Chrysostom, an authentic writer of the fourth
century, in describing the magnificence of the Greek emperors at
Byzantium, mentions the dazzling splendor of the diamonds scintillating
by agitation. If the historian does not use this description for the
gems in general, we may infer that the diamonds had been polished;
since the unpolished stones do not exhibit much, if any, play of the
prismatic hues. The maxim, “diamond cut diamond,” is of ancient origin,
and may perhaps be referred to the saying in vogue among the Greeks
as early as the seventh century, “that for the purpose of cutting
diamonds, a diamond was most effectual.”
The accounts of the Oriental historians concerning the fêtes of Timour
in the fourteenth century, where diamonds were showered in profusion
upon the guests, leave no doubts as to the art of polishing the gem as
early as that period.
The inventory of the _joyaux_ belonging to the Duc d’Anjou, in 1360,
shows that diamonds were then cut, although rudely. It makes special
mention of several diamonds, and one in particular set in a reliquary,
and cut in escutcheon. Other polished diamonds are described in the
account given of the splendid entertainment given at the Louvre, by the
Duke of Burgundy, to the King and Court of France.
There is also evidence to prove that diamond lapidaries were at work
in Paris, when Berquen came to reside there. However, it was not until
1475, after Berquen returned to his native city, Bruges, that the mode
of polishing diamonds by direct abrasion became known in Europe. And
when Charles the Bold intrusted the three famous gems to his skill,
and rewarded him with 3,000 ducats for his labor, the name of Berquen
became famous and widespread throughout Europe.
Nearly two centuries after this success, Cardinal Mazarin attempted
to establish the business of diamond-cutting in Paris, and confided
to the lapidaries he had invited to reside there, twelve of the
finest diamonds belonging to the Crown to be recut. These gems, from
their beauty, and the circumstance of cutting, were called the twelve
Mazarins. History has neglected to record the fate of these magnificent
gems save one. In the inventory of the French jewels in 1791, there
is the solitary description, “the tenth Mazarin.” The others have
disappeared.
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