Leisure hours among the gemsHamlin, Augustus C. (Augustus Choate)
Science
Leisure hours among the gems
Hamlin, Augustus C. (Augustus Choate)
Gems; Precious stones
The process of cutting the diamond is divided at Amsterdam into several
distinct branches, and workmen are educated to perform one part, but
not another. Thus the cleaving, the cutting, and the polishing have
special operators, who become expert in performing well the parts
assigned to them without attempting the others.
This ceremony and care adopted by the Jews has undoubtedly produced
skilful workmen; but we see no reason why all the parts may not be
perfectly acquired by an intelligent mechanic. The art of cleavage,
however, requires tact, and ought to include some knowledge of
mineralogy.
For the particulars of the art of diamond-cutting, we will refer our
readers to the interesting chapters by Jeffries, Mawe, and Barbot; but
we will, however, briefly mention some of the forms adopted for the
diamond, and how they are produced.
The table and the rose patterns were the first regular forms adopted
by the lapidaries. The first was simply the top of the stone ground
flat with a corresponding flat bottom of less area, with its four upper
and lower sides parallel to each other. As the light passed through
the stone without much refraction, the beauty of the mineral was not
developed by this pattern.
It has been stated that the rose shape was invented in Paris under the
auspices of Cardinal Mazarin, but Tavernier describes the diamonds of
Aurungzeb of India as being of the rose-cut. Therefore we must give a
more ancient date to the pattern than Mazarin’s day. The form of the
rose-cut is simply that of a hemisphere covered with small facets. Its
flattened base is therefore admirably adapted for incrustation work,
and the foil on which it is generally set serves as a refracting mirror
for the entering rays of light.
The rose pattern has several names which indicate the number of facets
which they may bear. If it has but twelve or less facets it is called
an Antwerp rose; if but eighteen or twenty it is a semi-Holland, and a
Holland rose if it bears twenty-four facets. At the present time these
gems are not in much demand, unless for incrustation work, for which
they are superior both in effect and in adaptability to the surface of
the object to be ornamented.
The form which appears to exhibit the splendors of the gem to the
best advantage is that known as the brilliant, and is rightly named
from its effects. It was discovered in Italy in the latter part of
the seventeenth century by Peruzzi of Venice, which city was then one
of the chief gem marts of the world. The conclusions which led to
the adoption of the shape were derived from experiments upon colored
stones. This form of the brilliant is that of the ancient deep table
modified by receiving thirty-two facets above and twenty-four below its
girdle. The great relative depth of the gem, aided by the numerous
facets of the sides, appears to increase the natural refractive power
of the stone by confining, as it were, the rays of light inside of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account