Burgos, like many other provincial capitals in Spain, is rich in old
mansions of the nobility. Our English country towns have lost much
historic and monumental interest from the immemorial practice of our
aristocracy living on their estates, remote from towns. Quite small
towns in France and in western Europe generally, usually contain two or
three residences of the local nobility which do something to redeem the
place from utter provincialism. It is the absence of such buildings
perhaps that gives even our large country towns the aspect of mere
agricultural centres or overgrown villages. The finest example of civil
architecture in Burgos is the Casa del Cordon, now the residence of the
Captain-General. This was the palace of that family whose tombs we have
seen in the Capilla del Condestable. It was in all probability built by
the same workmen in the middle of the fifteenth century, under the
direction of the famous Mudejar architect of Segovia, Mohammed, and by
order of the illustrious High Constable, Don Pedro Fernandez de Velasco,
and his consort, Doña Mencia de Mendoza de la Vega. Here Ferdinand the
Catholic and Charles V. held their courts, and here the first Duchess of
Frias presided over a little coterie composed of the most brilliant men
of letters and artists in Spain. This lady was the natural daughter of
Ferdinand, her mother having been a Catalan girl who accompanied her
royal lover in all his campaigns disguised as an esquire. The
accomplished duchess was the firm friend of her half-sister, the hapless
Queen Juana, and took the latter’s husband, Philip the Handsome, to task
so severely, that he caused her to be ejected from her own house. Within
these walls the Burgundian prince expired, his body being jealously
watched by the queen and the duchess to save it, tradition avers, from a
lady by whom he had been passionately loved and who had sworn to possess
him in death. The Casa del Cordon has nobler memories, too, of Columbus
who, on his return from his second voyage to America, here presented
himself to the Catholic Sovereigns with offerings of the choicest
products of the New World. Here was signed, on June 11, 1515, the act of
the incorporation of the kingdom of Navarre with Castile, the unity of
the whole of Spain being thus achieved. A copy of the document is
preserved in the city archives. And in this house, in 1526, Francis I.
was entertained on his way back to France by the High Constable of
Castile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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