Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of ElginElgin, James Bruce, Earl of
History
Letters and Journals of James, Eighth Earl of Elgin
Elgin, James Bruce, Earl of
Great Britain -- Colonies -- Administration -- History -- 19th century
I have been pacing the bridge between the paddle-boxes,
contemplating this scene, until we dropped our anchor, and I came down
to tell you of this my first experience of the Yangtze. And what will
the sum of those experiences be? We are going into an unknown region,
along a river which, beyond Nankin, has not been navigated by
Europeans. We are to make our way through the lines of those strange
beings the Chinese Rebels. We are to penetrate beyond them to cities,
of the magnitude and population of which fabulous stories are told;
among people who have never seen Western men; who have probably heard
the wildest reports of us; to whom we shall assuredly be stranger than
they can possibly be to us. What will the result be? Will it be a
great disappointment, or will its interest equal the expectations it
raises? Probably before this letter is despatched to you, it will
contain an answer more or less explicit to these questions.
_Sunday, November 14th.--Six P.M._--We have just dropped anchor, some
eighty miles from Woosung. I wish that you had been with me on this
evening's trip. You would have enjoyed it. During the earlier part of
the afternoon we were going on merrily together. The two gunboats
ahead, the 'Furious' and 'Retribution' abreast, sometimes one,
sometimes the other, taking the lead. After awhile we (the 'Furious')
put out our strength, and left gunboats and all behind. When the sun
had passed the meridian, the masts and sails were a protection from
his rays, and as he continued to drop towards the water right ahead of
us, he strewed our path, first with glittering silver spangles, then
with roses, then with violets, through all of which we sped
ruthlessly. The banks still flat, until the last part of the trip,
when we approached some hills on the left, not very lofty, but clearly
defined, and with a kind of dreamy softness about them, which reminded
one of Egypt. Altogether, it was impossible to have had anything more
charming in the way of yachting; the waters a perfect calm, or hardly
crisped by the breeze that played on their surface. We rather wish for
more wind, as the 'Cruiser' cannot keep up without a little help of
that kind.
[Sidenote: Aground.]
[Sidenote: Silver Island.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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