One morning the screw has stopped, and the sun rises, and the morning
mist lifts, to show us an open bay into which the surf dashes
unrestrained, and which is fringed on one side with a thick wood of
cocoa-nut palms and tropical undergrowth, with here and there a
bungalow or a little hut, while on the other side of the bay a road
runs along the base of stone-faced ramparts covered with the freshest,
greenest turf, and leads up to a seventeenth-century gateway, by which
a crowd of people are passing in and out. Within the walls are the
red and purple tiled roofs, and strong tropical lights and shadows
of Galle. It is an exquisite scene to wake up to from the formless
solitude of mid-ocean. Paddling round about the vessel are swarms of
small craft, barge-like boats, and long picturesque canoes scarcely
more than a foot wide, made of a hollowed tree, and balanced on the
tossing swell by a small beam fastened parallel to them by outriggers
six or eight feet long and resting on the water. They are manned
by natives vociferously vending newspapers, fruit, or trinkets, or
bargaining to take passengers ashore.
Ashore all go as soon as possible, and through the gateway, and up
a street shaded by a green avenue, till the great Oriental Hotel is
reached, the large broad verandah of which is crowded with people in
all the strange costumes and head-gear of Anglo-Indians, talking,
flirting, smoking, eating, drinking, bargaining, and abusing the (at
this time of year) more than Indian heat. They are passengers going to,
or returning from, India and China. For Galle is the Rugby Junction of
Anglo-Asiatic traffic, where the China and Australia steamers disgorge
their passengers into the larger vessel from Calcutta and Madras—many
rills flowing into one stream—and there are often a couple of days
to be spent here waiting—days inexpressibly full of interest and
enjoyment to those to whom the scenes of India and of the tropics are
new and unfamiliar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account