And now we are in the much-dreaded and famous Red Sea. Dreaded it
justly is on account of the terrible heat there during the summer
months. A captain now on another station told me that when on this
line he sometimes lost passengers (most of them invalids, probably) at
the rate of one or two every day. Why the heat is so intolerable is
not very clear, as the actual temperature by the thermometer is never
remarkably high—nothing like so high as in many other places where
heat is not much complained of. Fortunately, we are too early in the
season to suffer from it, and it is scarcely so hot as before reaching
Aden. The strong north-westerly breeze too, which almost always
blows down the sea, meets us and refreshes us. How the navigation
was ever performed before the days of steam is a marvel. One of the
steamers once fell in with a sailing-ship bound from Aden to Suez, and
_seventy-five days out_ from the former place, all the crew ill or dead
with heat, and only the master and one boy available for duty.
The narrowness of the sea and the dangerous coral reefs which lie on
either side, and on which so many fine steamers have been stranded,
make all vessels keep to one uniform course straight up the centre
of it, out of sight of land on either side. Every day some huge
steamer—more often there are two or three—passes with its living
freight. For the first time we fully realise what a mighty highway
of the world it is. Year by year the long sea-passage by the Cape
to India, is less and less followed. Even troops now often take the
overland route, and if ever the Suez canal is opened to vessels of
large tonnage, the change will be greater still. After centuries of
disuse, the old, old road from Europe to India is open again with a
hundred times the traffic and importance that it ever had before.
Once only does our vessel pause. A suffering invalid, hoping in vain
to reach home alive, has died during the night. In the morning the
burial-service is read over the coffin wrapped in a Union-jack, and
from a large port on the saloon-deck forward it is lowered gently into
the sea; and after scarce five minutes’ interval, the engines throb
again, and the screw revolves, and the resting-place, unknown and
unmarked, is left behind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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