But my most treasured memories concerning oranges come from
Barbicaglia, a large garden close to Ajaccio, where I was about to have
a siesta in the hottest time of the day. The orange trees were taller
and further apart than in Blidah and reached down to the road, behind a
ditched hedge. Immediately beyond the road, there was the deep blue
sea.... I have had such happy times in that orchard. The orange trees
in flower and in fruit, spread their delightful perfume around.
Occasionally, a ripe orange, would fall and drop to the ground near me
with a dull thud, and I just had to stretch out my hand. They were
superb fruit, with their purple, blood-colour flesh inside, and looked
exquisite, toning in with the surrounding stunning scenery. Between the
leaves, the sea was seen in dazzling blue patches, like shattered glass
sparkling in the sea mist. The ever-moving sea disturbed the atmosphere
far away and caused a rhythmic murmur that soothed, like being on a
boat. Oh, the heat, and the smell of oranges.... It was just so very
refreshing to sleep in that orchard at Barbicaglia!
Sometimes, however, at the height of the siesta, a drum-roll would wake
me up with a start. The boys of the military band came over there to
practice on the road. Through the gaps in the hedge, I could see the
brass decoration on the drums and the white aprons on their red
trousers. The poor devils came into what little shade was offered by
the hedge to hide for a while from the blinding light, pitilessly
reflected from the dust on the road. And they played on until they
became very, very hot! I forced myself from my dream-like state, and
amused myself by throwing them some of the golden, red fruit that I
could easily reach. My target drummer stopped. There was a short pause,
as he looked around for the source of this superb orange rolling into
the ditch beside him, before snatching it up and taking a grateful
mouthful without even bothering to peel it.
Right next to Barbicaglia, over a low wall, I overlooked a small,
strange garden of an Italianate design in a small plot of land. Its
sand-covered paths bordered by bright green box trees and two cypress
trees guarding the entrance gave it the look of a Marseille country
seat. There was no shade whatsoever. At the far end, there was a white
stone building with skylight windows on the ground floor. At first I
thought it was a country house, but on closer inspection, I noticed a
cross on the roof, and a carved inscription in the stone which I
couldn't make out from here. I knew then that it was a Corsican family
tomb. These little mausoleums can be seen all around Ajaccio,
well-spaced, and surrounded by a garden. The families go there on
Sundays, to visit their dead. A setting like that, gives death a less
gloomy air than the confusion of cemeteries; and there is only the
footsteps of friends to disturb the silence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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