Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Religion
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8
Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The principal object of attraction here is the Church of the
Nativity. This is a large establishment, and includes in it both a
monastery and church. It properly belongs to the Latins, but is,
in part, a joint concern, as the Greeks have a chapel in it, and
probably some of the other Christian sects. They pretend to show you
the place where our Lord was born, and the manger in which he was
laid. The church is built over them. They may be said to be under
the level of the ground, and in a grotto, as almost all their holy
places are. You descend ten or twelve feet, and approach the place
of nativity through a narrow passage, which is paved, and the sides
faced with polished marble. The place itself is small, and used
somewhat as an altar,--a little recess in the wall. It is almost
filled with lamps, which are kept always burning. The manger is a
few yards to the right, on the other side of the passage. It is also
very richly ornamented, lined in part with silk, and illuminated
with many lamps. From these places a way leads into the Latin and
Greek chapels.
No sooner was our arrival announced than we were beset by a number
of persons with all sorts of trinkets for sale, crosses, large
pieces of mother-of-pearl, with the likeness of some holy person or
thing carved on it, beads, and snuff-boxes. They followed us into
the church, waylaid us in the passages, and beset us in the streets.
A great part of the population are engaged in manufacturing such
things, and they form the chief article of trade at this place. They
were really troublesome in their efforts to induce us to buy, and
they took care to ask a good price.
When about to start, some of our party were detained in the church
after I came out. I waited on my horse, and, as the day was hot, and
the sun beat down with great power, I spread my umbrella over me.
This excited the curiosity not only of the boys and common soldiers,
of whom the place was full, but of some of the inferior officers.
They gathered about me in crowds, and looked at the umbrella on all
sides--wished to understand the mechanism for raising and letting
it down--tried it, and held it over them. They examined my clothes,
especially my shoes, and on the whole, gave the Frank a pretty close
examination as to his exterior. They exhibited great good-nature in
doing it, and appeared much pleased with my willingness to gratify
their curiosity. After leaving the town, we passed many soldiers and
horsemen under the olive-trees which abound in the vicinity. One
of the horsemen joined us in the ride, and took a hat from Angelo,
which he put on his own head, and caught hold of the umbrella of
one of the company, and spread it over him, assuming in pleasantry
great dignity, to the no little amusement of his companions. I have
heard it said that the Turks seldom laugh, and I believe they do
laugh less than Franks; yet I have met with several samples of the
humorous and droll among them that was not a little amusing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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