Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Religion
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8
Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Palestine -- Description and travel
We had no alternative but to wait until morning. We were hungry,
but our provisions were exhausted. We could not cook, for we had no
water. We felt a good deal of displeasure at the fathers who thus
refused us admittance. We lay down at the gate and waited for the
morning. About sunrise, after seeing that we were Franks, and but
few in number, they opened the gates and gave us admittance. The
superior apologised for their refusal to admit us in the night. He
said most of the monks were absent, it being the season for making
their wine--that there were but a few old men in the monastery--that
the district about them was in a disturbed state--and they did not
know who we were--they knew not but that it might be a stratagem of
some freebooters to get in and rob the monastery--that had we sent
them word from Jerusalem that we were coming, they would at once
have admitted us. I thought that there was much reason in what they
said; and this, together with the readiness with which they provided
us refreshments, and showed us all parts of their establishment,
made me cordially forgive their seeming rough treatment in refusing
to admit us before.
The monastery of San-Saba stands on a narrow, deep ravine. It takes
in part of the ridge on both sides, and has a very high and strong
wall, which crosses the ravine at two places, so as to include the
valley for a considerable distance. In the valley within the walls,
is a small spring, the only one that is near. On the hills are
towers connected with the walls. There are many buildings within,
and rooms sufficient to hold several thousand persons. There are
a number of chapels, several of which are richly furnished, and
they, as well as most of the Greek monasteries in Jerusalem, have
lately received rich presents from Russia. Above twenty boxes were
lately sent to the Greek church in these regions, filled with rich
chandeliers, censers, crosses, altar cloths, and priests' garments.
They showed us a chapel, in which was a pile of human skulls, said
to be of monks and martyrs. There was an altar before them, on which
religious service seemed to be at times performed.
Most of the chapels had many pictures in them. The Greeks make much
use of pictures in their worship. I was especially struck with a
picture of the Last Judgment. God was represented as an old man--a
fiery stream came out from before Him. The apostles were acting as
judges--the dead were rising, and a halo of glory was around the
head of the righteous--Peter was opening the gates of Heaven to
the righteous, and the fiery stream was beating on the wicked, and
forcing them into the mouth of a monstrous serpent.
There were many artificial caves in the sides of the ravine on which
San-Saba stands. These were formerly inhabited by monks, it is said,
but their number now not being great, they can find accommodation
within the building.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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