Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Religion
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8
Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Damascus has long been considered by the Mohammedans as one of their
sacred cities; and it is not many years since when their bigotry
was so great that Christians had to use much caution to avoid its
outbreakings. There is a great change in this respect. Christians
may now go about with little danger. We rode repeatedly through the
crowded bazaars, and no one appeared to take the least offence; and
generally gave their salaam with indications of kindness. Still, it
will sometimes show itself. It is not long since that Mr. Calman, a
Jewish missionary, when engaged in selling the Scriptures, was taken
up by the bigoted Mohammedans, and for a time feared that he might
be put to trouble, but was released without much difficulty.
The main, if not the only river which waters the part of the plain
where Damascus stands, is the Bareda. It rises near Zebdane. We
followed its course, as I have before informed you, until it entered
the plain. There it is divided into three parts, which are led at
a distance from each other for the purpose of watering the plain.
From these channels a multitude of smaller ones are led in all
directions, so that every part of the plain within reach of the
water may, from time to time, receive its life-giving influence. The
main channel passes through or near the city, and its waters are
carried by pipes to every part of it.
To the south and south-east other streams are said to enter and flow
through the plain; but we did not visit those parts. They must be
small streams. Indeed the Bareda is a small stream. It would with us
be called a good mill stream. We would rather term it a creek than
a river. It is mostly confined in a channel of eight or ten yards
wide, and then may be waded without coming above the knee. Much of
the water of these rivers is exhausted in irrigation. They flow
east, and after rendering a noble plain very fertile and productive
for twenty or thirty miles, form a lake or marsh--they have no
outlet. I wished much to ride eastward through this plain and see
the country about the lake, but the time of the year and other
causes prevented.
It was the sickly season, and there was much sickness in Damascus.
Visiting the city at such a time was not classed with a high
degree of prudence and caution, while to have spent a week or so
in exploring the plain, and visiting the many villages along the
Bareda, would have been considered almost madness--a tempting
of Providence. I therefore spent but one night and two days in
Damascus, and then hurried back to the high ground on the great
mountain of Lebanon--not, however, without a lingering purpose that
when the heats of summer are passed, I may take Damascus in my route
again, and see more of its wide-spread plains, and thickly-planted
villages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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