Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Religion
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8
Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Jaffa stands on a sandy point, which projects a little distance into
the sea. The ground at the point is more elevated than farther
back. It is a walled town, with a double wall and fosse in some
places, all, however, much out of repair. We saw but a few cannon
on the part of the wall which we examined, and those small and in
bad order. We passed a number of soldiers in our walks about the
town, and found a strong guard at the gate. Most of the houses
have a very old appearance, few of them are good; the streets are
narrow, crooked, and filthy, as in almost all the Turkish towns I
have visited. The houses are much crowded together, and cover a very
small space, considering their number. This is the case with most
of the Turkish towns in the East, especially their walled towns on
the coast. We visited the Latin and Greek convents, and were kindly
received, and had coffee and sweetmeats handed us. The bazaars and
shops appeared exceedingly poor, and to be scantily supplied with
articles of merchandise.
Jaffa is a place of interest, chiefly, as being the sea-port nearest
Jerusalem, and the landing-place of a large number of pilgrims that
annually resort, by thousands, to visit the holy places in and
about Jerusalem. It has also, in the noble plain of Sharon, a most
admirable back country. But what avails a country, however good,
if there be not people to cultivate it, and if the government be
so unwise and oppressive as to hold out no inducement for industry
among the people?
While looking at the city, we went without the walls as far as the
grave-yard. I had noticed on the shore, and in the street, great
quantities of a small but beautiful sea-shell, and at the grave-yard
I found them very abundant, and put to a singular use. They were
laid on the graves in great numbers, often forming quite a little
mound on the top of the grave, and in many cases, a newly-formed
stone, which is found at certain places on the shore, and which is
in great part made up of these shells, was set up at the head and
foot of the graves. It had a tasteful and pretty appearance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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