The size of our Cathedral seems to me happily adapted to the object
of the building. Three hundred and ninety-eight feet long by two
hundred and ninety-one broad--the breadth distributed into five
aisles, formed by one hundred and four arches, of which those of
the centre are one hundred and thirty-four feet high, and the rest
ninety-six--remove the limits of an undivided structure enough to
require that effort of the eye and pause of the mind before we
conceive it as a whole, which excites the idea of grandeur. This, I
believe, is the impression which a temple should produce. To aim at
more is to forget the solemn performances for which the structure is
intended. Let the house of prayer, when solitary, appear so ample as
not to exclude a single suppliant in a populous town; yet let the
throng be visible on a solemn feast. Let the loftiness of the aisles
soften the noise of a moving multitude into a gentle and continuous
rustling; but let me hear the voice of the singers and the peals of
the organ returned in deep echoes; not lost in the too distant vaults.
The simultaneous impression of architectural and ritual magnificence
produced at the Cathedral of Seville is, I conceive, difficult to be
rivalled. The pillars are not so massive as to obstruct the sight
at every turn; and were the influence of modern taste strong enough
to prevail over the canonical vanity which blocks up the middle of
every Cathedral with the clumsy and absurd inclosure of the choir, it
would be difficult to imagine a more striking view than that which
our Church presents on Holy Thursday.--In one respect, and that a
most important one, it has the advantage over Saint Peter’s at Rome.
The scene of filth and irreverence which, according to travellers,
sometimes disgusts the eye and revolts the mind at the Church of the
Vatican--those crowds of peasants and beggars, eating, drinking, and
sleeping, on Christmas eve, within the precincts of the temple; are
not to be seen at Seville. Our Church, though almost thronged day and
night on the principal festivals, is not profaned by any external
mark of indevotion. The strictest watch is kept by members of the
chapter appointed for that purpose, who, attended by their vergers,
go their rounds for the preservation of order. The exclusion of
every kind of seats from the Church, though rather inconvenient for
the people, prevents its being made a lounging-place; and, besides
allowing the beautiful marble pavement to appear unbroken, avoids
that dismal look of an empty theatre, which benches or pews give to
churches in the intervals of divine service.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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