High mass begins this day behind the great veil, which for the two
last weeks in Lent covers the altar. After some preparatory prayers,
the priest strikes up the hymn _Gloria in excelsis Deo_. At this
moment the veil flies off, the explosion of fireworks in the upper
galleries reverberates in a thousand echoes from the vaults of the
church, and the four-and-twenty large bells of its tower, awake,
with their discordant though gladdening sounds, those of the one
hundred and forty-six steeples which this religious town boasts
of. A brisk firing of musketry, accompanied by the howling of the
innumerable dogs, which, unclaimed by any master, live and multiply
in our streets, adds strength and variety to this universal din. The
firing is directed against several stuffed figures, not unlike the
Guy Fawkes of the fifth of November; which are seen hanging by the
neck on a rope, extended across the least frequented streets. It is
then that the pious rage of the people of Seville is vented against
the archtraitor Judas, whom they annually hang, shoot, draw and
quarter in effigy.
The church service ends in a procession about the aisles. The priest
bears the host in his hands, visible through glass, as a picture
within a medallion. The sudden change from the gloomy appearance of
the church and its ministers, to the simple and joyous character
of this procession, the very name of _Pasqua Florída_, the flowery
Passover, and, more than the name, the flowers themselves, which
well-dressed children, mixed with the censer-bearers, scatter on the
ground, crowd the mind and heart with the ideas, hopes, and feelings
of renovated life, and give to this ceremony, even for those who
disbelieve the personal presence in the host, of a Deity triumphant
over death; a character of inexpressible tenderness.
MAY CROSS.
The rural custom of electing a May Queen among the country belles is,
I understand, still practised in some parts of Spain. The name of
_Maia_, given to the handsomest lass of the village, who, decorated
with garlands of flowers, leads the dances in which the young people
spend the day, shews how little that ceremony has varied since the
time of the Romans. The villagers, in other provinces, declare their
love by planting, during the preceding night, a large bough or a
sapling, decked with flowers, before the doors of their sweethearts.
As most of our ancient church festivals were contrived as substitutes
for the Pagan rites, which the Christian priesthood could not
otherwise eradicate, we still have some remnants of the sanctified
_May-pole_ in the little crosses, which the children ornament with
flowers, and place upon tables, holding as many lighted tapers as,
from the contributions of their friends, they can afford to buy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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