A silver bust of Saint Leander, with his bones.
A thorn from our Saviour’s crown.
A fragment of the true cross.
Last of all appears the body of prebendaries and canons, attended
by their inferior ministers. Such, however, is the length of the
procession, and the slow and solemn pace at which it proceeds, that,
without a break in the lines, it takes a whole hour to leave the
church. The streets, besides being hung up with more taste than for
the processions of the Passion Week, are shaded all the way with a
thick awning, and the pavement is strewed with rushes. An article of
the military code of Spain obliges whatever troops are quartered in a
town where this procession takes place, to follow it under arms; and
if sufficient in number, to line the streets through which it is to
pass.
Under all these circumstances, the first appearance of the host in
the streets is exceedingly imposing. Encircled by jewels of the
greatest brilliancy, surrounded by lighted tapers and enthroned on
the massive, yet elegant temple of silver already mentioned when
describing the _Monument_,[42] no sooner has it moved to the door
of the church than the bells announce its presence with a deafening
sound, the bands of military music mix their animating notes with
the solemn hymns of the singers, clouds of incense rise before the
moving shrine, and the ear is thrilled by the loud voice of command,
and the clash of the arms which the kneeling soldiers strike down
to the ground. When the concealed bearers of the shrine[43] present
it at the top of the long street where the route commences, the
multitudes which crowd both the pavement and windows, fall prostrate
in profound adoration, without venturing to rise up till the object
of their awe is out of sight. Flowers are often scattered from the
windows, and the most beautiful nosegays adorn the platform of the
moveable stage.
[42] See page 253.
[43] See Letter II. p. 34.
Close behind the host follows the archbishop, surrounded by his
ecclesiastical retinue. One of his chaplains carries a large double
cross of silver, indicative of metropolitan dignity. The train of the
purple mantle is supported by another clergyman. These, like the rest
of the prelate’s attendants and pages, are young men of family, who
disdain not this kind of service, in the expectation of high church
preferment. But what gives all this state the most unexpected finish
is an inferior minister in his surplice bearing a circular fan of
richly embroidered silk about two feet in diameter, and attached to
a silver rod six feet in length. At a convenient distance from the
archbishop this fan is constantly waved, whenever during the summer
months he attends the cathedral service, thus relieving him from the
oppressive effects of his robes under the burning sun of Andalusia.
This custom is, I believe, peculiar to Seville.
SAINT JOHN’S EVE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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