You will form some idea of our police and government, from the
circumstance of our being obliged to take our passport, not for
Madrid, but Salamanca, in order thus to smuggle ourselves into the
capital. The minister of _Gracia y Justicia_, or home department,
Caballero, one of the most willing and odious instruments of our
arbitrary court, being annoyed by the multitude of place-hunters,
whom we denominate Pretendientes, who flocked to Madrid from the
provinces; has lately issued an order forbidding all persons
whatever, to come to the capital, unless they previously obtain a
royal license. To await the King’s pleasure would have exposed us
to great inconvenience, and probably to a positive denial. But as
the minister’s order was now two or three months old, a period at
which our court-laws begin to grow obsolete, and we did not mean to
trouble _his excellency_; we trusted to luck and our purse, as to any
little obstacles which might arise from the interference of inferior
officers.
I shall not detain you with a description of our journey--the
delays at the post-houses--our diminished haste at Valdepeñas for
the sake of its delicious wine just as it is drawn from the immense
earthen-jars, where it is kept buried in the ground; and, finally,
the ugly but close and tight post-chaises drawn by three mules
a-breast, which are used from Aranjuez to Madrid. I do not love
description, probably because I cannot succeed in it. You will,
therefore, have the goodness to apply for a picture of this _town_
(for I wish you to remark that it is not reckoned among our _cities_)
in Burgoing, Townsend, or some other professed traveller. My
narrative shall, as hitherto, be limited to what these gentlemen were
not likely to see or understand with the accuracy and distinctness of
a native.
The influence of the court being unlimited in Spain, no object
deserves a closer examination from such as wish to be acquainted
with the moral state of this country. I must, therefore, begin
with a sketch of the main sources of that influence, carefully
excluding every report which has reached me through any but the most
respectable channels, or an absolute notoriety. The fountain-head
of power and honours among us has, till lately, been the Queen, a
daughter of the late Duke of Parma, a very ugly woman, now fast
approaching old age, yet affecting youth and beauty. She had been but
a short time married to the present King, then Prince of Asturias,
when she discovered a strong propensity to gallantry, which the
austere and jealous temper of her father-in-law Charles III. was
scarcely able to check. Her husband, one of those happy beings born
to derive bliss from ignorance, has ever preserved a strong and
exclusive attachment to her person. This attachment, combined with a
most ludicrous simplicity, closes his mind against every approach of
suspicion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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