Such as visit Madrid and the _Sitios_, independent of Court favour,
may, for a few weeks, find amusement in the strangeness of the scene.
The Court of Spain is, otherwise, too dull, stiff, and formal, to
become an interesting residence. The only good society in the upper
ranks is to be found among the _Corps Diplomatique_. The King, wholly
occupied in the chase, and the Queen in her _boudoir_, are, of late,
extremely averse to the theatres. Two Spanish play-houses are still
allowed to be open every night; but the opera has been discontinued
for several years, merely because it was a daily _rendezvous_ for the
higher classes. So jealous is the Queen of fashionable assemblies,
that the grandees do not venture to admit more than four or five
individuals to their _tertulias_; and scarcely a ball is given at
Madrid in the course of the year. This, however, is never attempted
without asking the Queen’s permission. The Marchioness of Santiago,
whose evening parties were numerous, and attended by the most
agreeable and accomplished people in the capital, was, a short time
since, obliged, by an intimation communicated through the police, to
deny her house to her friends.
Even bull-fights have been forbidden, and the idle population of
the metropolis of Spain have been left no other source of amusement
than collecting every evening in the extensive walk called El Prado,
after having lounged away the morning about the streets, or basked
in the sun, during the winter, at the Puerta del Sol, a large space,
almost surrounded by public buildings. The coffee-rooms are, in the
cold season, crowded for about an hour after dinner, i. e. from three
to four in the afternoon, and in the early part of the evening; but
the noise, and the smoke of the cigars, make these places as close
and disagreeable as any tap-room in London. It would be absurd
to expect any kind of rational conversation in such places. The
most interesting topics must be carefully avoided, for fear of the
combined powers of the police and the Inquisition, whose spies are
dreaded in all public places. Hence the depraved taste which degrades
our intercourse to an eternal giggling and bantering.
Our daily resource for society is the house of Don Manuel Josef
Quintana, a young lawyer, whose poetical talents, select reading,
and various information, place him among the first of our men
of letters; while the kindness of his heart, and the lofty and
honourable principles of his conduct, make him an invaluable friend
and most agreeable companion. After our evening walk in the Prado,
we retire to that gentleman’s study, where four or five others,
of similar taste and opinions, meet to converse with freedom upon
whatever subjects are started. The political principles of Quintana
and his best friends consist in a rooted hatred of the existing
tyranny, and a great dislike of the prevailing influence of the
French Emperor over the Spanish Court.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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