Our town itself abounds in amusements of this kind, where the
professional bull-fighters learn their art, and the amateurs feast
their eyes, occasionally joining in the sport with the very lowest
of the people. You must know, by the way, that our town corporation
enjoys the privilege of being our sole and exclusive butchers. They
alone have a right to kill and sell meat; which, coming through
their _noble_ hands, (for this municipal government is entailed on
the first Andalusian families) is the worst and dearest in the whole
kingdom. Two droves of lean cattle are brought every week to a large
slaughter-house (_el matadero_) which stands between one of the city
gates and the suburb of San Bernardo. To walk in that neighbourhood
when the cattle approach is dangerous; for, notwithstanding the
emaciated condition of the animals, and though many are oxen and
cows, a crowd is sure to collect on the plain, and by the waving of
their cloaks, and a sharp whistling which they make through their
fingers, they generally succeed in dispersing the drove, in order
to single out the fiercest for their amusement. Nothing but the
Spanish cloak is used on these occasions. Holding it gracefully at
arm’s length before the body, so as to conceal the person from the
breast to the feet, they wave it in the eyes of the animal, shaking
their heads with an air of defiance, and generally calling out _Ha!
Toro, Toro!_ The bull pauses a moment before he rushes upon the
nearest object. It is said that he shuts his eyes at the instant
of pushing with his horns. The man keeping his cloak in the first
direction, flings it over the head of the animal, while he glances
his body to the left, just when the bull, led forward by the original
impulse, must run on a few yards without being able to turn upon his
adversary, whom, upon wheeling round, he finds prepared to delude him
as before. This sport is exceedingly lively; and when practised by
proficients, seldom attended with danger. It is called _Capéo_. The
whole population of San Bernardo, men, women and children, are adepts
in this art. Within the walls of the slaughter-house, however,
is the place where the bull-fighters by profession are allowed to
improve themselves. A member of the town corporation presides,
and admits, gratis, his friends; among whom, notwithstanding the
filth natural to such places, ladies do not disdain to appear. The
_Matadero_ is so well known as a school for bull-fighting, that
it bears the cant appellation of the _College_. Many of our first
noblesse have frequented no other school. Fortunately, this fashion
is wearing away. Yet we have often seen Viscount Miranda, the head
of one of the proudest families of the proud city of Cordova, step
into the public amphitheatre, and kill a bull with his own hand.
This gentleman had reared up one of his favourite animals, and
accustomed him to walk into his parlour, to the great consternation
of the company. The bull, however, once, in a surly mood, forgot
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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