Few among the lower classes retire to their beds on the eve of a
_Bull-day_. From midnight they pour down the streets leading to
the amphitheatre, in the most riotous and offensive manner, to be
present at the Encierro--_shutting-in_ of the bulls--which being
performed at the break of day, is allowed to be seen without paying
for seats. The devoted animals are conducted from their native
fields to a large plain in the neighbourhood of Seville, from whence
eighteen, the number exhibited daily during the feasts, are led to
the amphitheatre, on the appointed day, that long confinement may not
break down their fierceness. This operation has something extremely
wild in its character. All the amateurs of the town are seen on
horseback with their lances hastening towards Tablada, the spot
where the bulls are kept at large. The herdsmen, on foot, collect
the victims of the day into a drove; this they do by means of tame
oxen, called _Cabestros_, taught to be led by a haulter, carrying,
tied round their neck, a large deep-sounding bell, with a wooden
clapper. What the habit of following the bells of the leaders fails
to do, the cracking of the herdsmen’s slings is sure to perform, when
the animals are not driven to madness. The horsemen, also, stand on
all sides of the drove till they get into a round trot. Thus they
proceed to within half a mile of the amphitheatre. At that distance a
path is closed up on both sides, with stout poles, tied horizontally
across upright stakes--a feeble rampart, indeed, against the fury of
a herd of wild bulls. Yet the Sevillian mob, though fully aware of
the danger, are mad enough to take pleasure in exposing themselves.
The intolerable noise in my street, and the invitation of a Member of
the _Maestranza_--a corporate association of noblemen, whose object
is the breeding and breaking of horses, and who in this town enjoy
the exclusive privilege of giving bull-feasts to the public--induced
me, during the last season, to get up one morning with the dawn, and
take my stand at the amphitheatre, where, from their private gallery,
I commanded a view of the plain lying between the river Guadalquivir
and that building.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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