The calamity which has afflicted this town and swept away eighteen
thousand of its inhabitants,[24] will more than sufficiently
account for my long silence. But, during the interruption of my
correspondence, there is a former period for which I owe you a more
detailed explanation.
[24] The yellow fever in 1800.
My travels in Spain have hitherto been as limited as is used among
my countrymen. The expense, the danger, and the great inconvenience
attending a journey, prevent our travelling for pleasure or
curiosity. Most of our people spend their whole lives within their
province, and few among the females have ever lost sight of the town
that gave them birth. I have, however, brought home some of your
English restlessness; and, as my dear friend, the young clergyman,
whose account of himself is already in your hands, had to visit a
very peculiar spot of Andalusia, I joined him most willingly in his
excursion, during which I collected a few traits of our national
manners, with a view to add one more to my preceding sketches.
My friend’s destination was a town in the mountains or Sierra de
Ronda, called Olbera, or Olvera, for we make no difference in the
pronunciation of the _b_ and the _v_. A young man of that town
had been elected to a fellowship of this _Colegio Mayor_, and my
friend, who is a member of that body, was the appointed commissioner
for collecting the _pruebas_, or evidence, which, according to
the statutes, must be taken at the birth-place of the candidate,
concerning the purity of his blood and family connexions. The badness
of the roads, in that direction, induced us to make the whole
journey on horseback. We were provided with the coarse dress which
country gentlemen wear on similar occasions--a short loose jacket
and small-clothes of brown serge; thick leather gaiters; a cloak
tied up in a roll on the pommel of the saddle; and a stout spencer,
ornamented with a kind of patchwork lace, made of pieces of various
colours, which is a favourite riding-dress of our Andalusian beaux.
Each of us, as well as the servant, whose horse carried our light
luggage, was armed with a musket, hanging by a hook, on a ring,
which all travelling-saddles are furnished with for that purpose.
This manner of travelling is, upon the whole, the most pleasant
in Andalusia. Robbers seldom attack people on horseback, provided
they take care, as we did, never to pass any wooded ground without
separating to the distance of a musket-shot from each other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account