Osuna, where we arrived on the second day after leaving Seville,
is built on the declivity of one of the detached hills which stand
as out-posts to the Sierra de Ronda, having in front a large
ill-cultivated plain, from whence the principal church, and the
college, to which the university of that town is attached, are
seen to great advantage. The great square of the town is nearly
surrounded by an arcade or piazza, with balconies above it, and is
altogether not unlike a large theatre. Such squares are to be found
in every large town of Spain, and seem to have been intended for the
exhibition of tournaments and a kind of bull-fights, less fierce
and bloody than those of the amphitheatre, which bear the name of
_regocijos_ (rejoicings.)
The line of distinction between the _noblesse_ and the unprivileged
class being here drawn with the greatest precision, there cannot
be a more disagreeable place for such as are, by education, above
the lower ranks, yet have the misfortune of a plebeian birth. An
honest respectable labourer without ambition, yet with a conscious
dignity of mind not uncommon among the Spanish peasantry, may, in
this respect, well be an object of envy to many of his betters.
Gentlemen treat them with a less haughty and distant air than is used
in England towards inferiors and dependents. A _rabadán_ (chief
shepherd), or an _aperador_ (steward), is always indulged with a
seat when speaking on business with his master, and men of the first
distinction will have a kind word for every peasant, when riding
about the country. Yet they will exclude from their club and billiard
table a well-educated man, because, forsooth, he has no legal title
to a Don before his name.
This town, though one of the third order, supports three convents
of friars and two of nuns. A gentleman of this place who, being
a clergyman, enjoys a high reputation as a spiritual director,
introduced us to some of the ladies at the nunneries. By this means
I became acquainted with two very remarkable characters--a worker of
miracles, and a nun in despair (_monja desesperada_). The first was
an elderly woman, whose countenance and manners betrayed no symptoms
of mental weakness, and whom, from all I was able to learn, it would
be difficult to class either with the deceiving or deceived. The
firm persuasion of her companions that she is sometimes the object,
sometimes the instrument of supernatural operations, inspires them
with a respect bordering upon awe. It would be tedious to relate the
alleged instances of her prying into futurity, and searching the
recesses of the heart. Reports like these are indeed easily raised
and propagated: but I shall briefly relate one, which shows how
stories of this kind may get abroad through the most respectable
channels, and form a chain of evidence which ingenuity cannot
trace up to involuntary error, and candour would not attribute to
deliberate falsehood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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