Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
My German host at Houw Hoek came out twenty-three years ago, he told me,
without a ‘heller’, and is now the owner of cattle and land and horses to
a large amount. But then the Germans work, while the Dutch dawdle and
the English drink. ‘New wine’ is a penny a glass (half a pint), enough
to blow your head off, and ‘Cape smoke’ (brandy, like vitriol) ninepence
a bottle—that is the real calamity. If the Cape had the grape disease as
badly as Madeira, it would be the making of the colony.
I received a message from my Malay friends, Abdool Jemaalee and Betsy,
anxious to know ‘if the Misses had good news of her children, for bad
news would make her sick’. Old Betsy and I used to prose about young
Abdurrachman and his studies at Mecca, and about my children, with more
real heartiness than you can fancy. We were not afraid of boring each
other; and pious old Abdool sat and nodded and said, ‘May Allah protect
them all!’ as a refrain;—‘Allah, il Allah!’
LETTER IX
Caledon, Feb. 21st.
THIS morning’s post brought your packet, and the announcement of an extra
mail to-night—so I can send you a P.S. I hear that Capetown has been
pestilential, and as hot as Calcutta. It is totally undrained, and the
Mozambiquers are beginning to object to acting as scavengers to each
separate house. The ‘_vidanges_’ are more barbarous even than in Paris.
Without the south-easter (or ‘Cape doctor’) they must have fevers, &c.;
and though too rough a practitioner for me, he benefits the general
health. Next month the winds abate, but last week an omnibus was blown
over on the Rondebosch road, which is the most sheltered spot, and
inhabited by Capetown merchants. I have received all the _Saturday
Reviews_ quite safe, likewise the books, Mendelssohn’s letters, and the
novel. I have written for my dear Choslullah to fetch me. The Dutch
farmers don’t know how to charge enough; moreover, the Hottentot drivers
get drunk, and for two lone women that is not the thing. I pay my gentle
Malay thirty shillings a day, which, for a cart and four and such a jewel
of a driver, is not outrageous; and I had better pay that for the few
days I wait on the road, than risk bad carts, tipsy Hottentots, and
extortionate boers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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