Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
This intermediate country between the ‘Central African wilderness’ and
Capetown has been little frequented. I went to the Church Mission School
with the English clergyman yesterday. You know I don’t believe in every
kind of missionaries, but I do believe that, in these districts, kind,
judicious English clergymen are of great value. The Dutch pastors still
remember the distinction between ‘Christenmenschen’ and ‘Hottentoten’;
but the Church Mission Schools teach the Anglican Catechism to every
child that will learn, and the congregation is as piebald as Harlequin’s
jacket. A pretty, coloured lad, about eleven years old, answered my
questions in geography with great quickness and some wit. I said, ‘Show
me the country you belong to.’ He pointed to England, and when I
laughed, to the cape. ‘This is where we are, but that is the country I
_belong to_.’ I asked him how we were governed, and he answered quite
right. ‘How is the Cape governed?’ ‘Oh, we have a Parliament too, and
Mr. Silberbauer is the man _we_ send.’ Boys and girls of all ages were
mixed, but no blacks. I don’t think they will learn, except on
compulsion, as at Gnadenthal.
I regret to say that Bill’s wife has broken his head with a bottle, at
the end of the honeymoon. I fear the innovation of being _married at
church_ has not had a good effect, and that his neighbours may quote Mr.
Peachum.
I was offered a young lion yesterday, but I hardly think it would be an
agreeable addition to the household at Esher.
I hear that Worcester, Paarl, and Stellenbosch are beautiful, and the
road very desolate and grand: one mountain pass takes six hours to cross.
I should not return to Capetown so early, but poor Captain J— has had his
leg smashed and amputated, so I must look out for myself in the matter of
ships. Whenever it is hot, I am well, for the heat here is so _light_
and dry. The wind tries me, but we have little here compared to the
coast. I hope that the voyage home will do me still more good; but I
will not sail till April, so as to arrive in June. May, in the Channel,
would not do.
How I wish I could send you the fruit now on my table—amber-coloured
grapes, yellow waxen apples streaked with vermillion in fine little
lines, huge peaches, and tiny green figs! I must send dear old Klein a
little present from England, to show that I don’t forget my Dutch adorer.
I wish I could bring you the ‘Biltong ‘ he sent me—beef or bok dried in
the sun in strips, and slightly salted; you may carry enough in your
pocket to live on for a fortnight, and it is very good as a little
‘relish’. The partridges also have been welcome, and we shall eat the
tiny haunch of bok to-day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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