Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
I went on the last evening of Ramadan to the Mosque, having heard there
was a grand ‘function’; but there were only little boys lying about on
the floor, some on their stomachs, some on their backs, higgledy-piggledy
(if it be not profane to apply the phrase to young Islam), all shouting
their prayers _à tue tête_. Priests, men, women, and English crowded in
and out in the exterior division. The English behaved _à
l’Anglaise_—pushed each other, laughed, sneered, and made a disgusting
display of themselves. I asked a stately priest, in a red turban, to
explain the affair to me, and in a few minutes found myself supplied by
one Mollah with a chair, and by another with a cup of tea—was, in short,
in the midst of a Malay _soirée_. They spoke English very little, but
made up for it by their usual good breeding and intelligence. On Monday,
I am going to see the school which the priest keeps at his house, and to
‘honour his house by my presence’. The delight they show at any friendly
interest taken in them is wonderful. Of course, I am supposed to be
poisoned. A clergyman’s widow here gravely asserts that her husband went
mad _three years_ after drinking a cup of coffee handed to him by a
Malay!—and in consequence of drinking it! It is exactly like the
mediæval feeling about the Jews. I saw that it was quite a
_demonstration_ that I drank up the tea unhesitatingly. Considering that
the Malays drank it themselves, my courage deserves less admiration. But
it was a quaint sensation to sit in a Mosque, behaving as if at an
evening party, in a little circle of poor Moslim priests.
I am going to have a photograph of my cart done. I was to have gone to
the place to-day, but when Choslullah (whom I sent for to complete the
picture) found out what I wanted, he implored me to put it off till
Monday, that he might be better dressed, and was so unhappy at the notion
of being immortalized in an old jacket, that I agreed to the delay. Such
a handsome fellow may be allowed a little vanity.
The colony is torn with dissensions as to Sunday trains. Some of the
Dutch clergy are even more absurd than our own on that point. A certain
Van der Lingen, at Stellenbosch, calls Europe ‘one vast Sodom’, and so
forth. There is altogether a nice kettle of religious hatred brewing
here. The English Bishop of Capetown appoints all the English clergy,
and is absolute monarch of all he surveys; and he and his clergy are
carrying matters with a high hand. The Bishop’s chaplain told Mrs. J—
that she could not hope for salvation in the Dutch Church, since her
clergy were not ordained by any bishop, and therefore they could only
administer the sacrament ‘_unto damnation_’. All the physicians in a
body, English as well as Dutch, have withdrawn from the Dispensary,
because it was used as a means of pressure to draw the coloured people
from the Dutch to the English Church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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