Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
Here I am, waiting for a ship; the steamer was too horrid: and I look so
much to the good to be gained by the voyage that I did not like to throw
away the chance of two months at sea at this favourable time of year, and
under favourable circumstances; so I made up my mind to see you all a
month later. The sea just off the Cape is very, very cold; less so now
than in spring, I dare say. The weather to-day is just like _very_ warm
April at home—showery, sunshiny, and fragrant; most lovely. It is so odd
to see an autumn without dead leaves: only the oaks lose theirs, the old
ones drop without turning brown, and the trees bud again at once. The
rest put on a darker green dress for winter, and now the flowers will
begin. I have got a picture for you of my ‘cart and four’, with sedate
Choslullah and dear little Mohammed. The former wants to go with me,
‘anywhere’, as he placidly said, ‘to be the missis’ servant’. What a
sensation his thatchlike hat and handsome orange-tawny face would make at
Esher! Such a stalwart henchman would be very creditable. I shall
grieve to think I shall never see my Malay friends again; they are the
only people here who are really interesting. I think they must be like
the Turks in manner, as they have all the eastern gentlemanly
‘Gelassenheit’ (ease) and politeness, and no eastern ‘Geschmeidigkeit’
(obsequiousness), and no idea of Baksheesh; withal frugal, industrious,
and money-making, to an astonishing degree. The priest is a bit of a
proselytiser, and amused me much with an account of how he had converted
English girls from their evil courses and made them good _Mussulwomen_.
I never heard a _naïf_ and sincere account of conversions _from_
Christianity before, and I must own it was much milder than the Exeter
Hall style.
I have heard a great many expressions of sorrow for the Queen from the
Malays, and always with the ‘hope the people will take much care of her,
now she is alone’. Of course Prince Albert was only the Queen’s husband
to them, and all their feeling is about her. It is very difficult to see
anything of them, for they want nothing of you, and expect nothing but
dislike and contempt. It would take a long time to make many friends, as
they are naturally distrustful. I found that eating or drinking
anything, if they offer it, made most way, as they know they are accused
of poisoning all Christians indiscriminately. Of course, therefore, they
are shy of offering things. I drank tea in the Mosque at the end of
Ramadan, and was surrounded by delighted faces as I sipped. The little
boy who waits in this house here had followed us, and was horrified: he
is still waiting to see the poison work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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