Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
After five weeks of waiting and worry, I have, at last, sent my goods on
board the ship _Camperdown_, now discharging her cargo, and about to take
a small party of passengers from the Cape. I offered to take a cabin in
a Swedish ship, bound for Falmouth; but the captain could not decide
whether he would take a passenger; and while he hesitated the old
_Camperdown_ came in. I have the best cabin after the stern cabins,
which are occupied by the captain and his wife and the Attorney-General
of Capetown, who is much liked. The other passengers are quiet people,
and few of them, and the captain has a high character; so I may hope for
a comfortable, though slow passage. I will let you know the day I sail,
and leave this letter to go by post. I may be looked for three weeks or
so after this letter. I am crazy to get home now; after the period was
over for which I had made up my mind, home-sickness began.
Mrs. R— has offered me a darling tiny monkey, which loves me; but I fear
A— would send me away again if I returned with her in my pocket.
Nassirah, old Abdool’s pretty granddaughter, brought me a pair of Malay
shoes or clogs as a parting gift, to-day. Mr. M—, the resident at
Singapore, tells me that his secretary’s wife, a Malay lady, has made an
excellent translation of the _Arabian Nights_, from Arabic into Malay.
Her husband is an Indian Mussulman, who, Mr. M— said, was one of the
ablest men he ever knew. Curious!
I sat, yesterday, for an hour, in the stall of a poor German basket-maker
who had been long in Caffre-land. His wife, a Berlinerin, was very
intelligent, and her account of her life here most entertaining, as
showing the different _Ansicht_ natural to Germans. ‘I had never’, she
said, ‘been out of the city of Berlin, and _knew nothing_.’ (Compare
with London cockney, or genuine Parisian.) Thence her fear, on landing
at Algoa Bay and seeing swarms of naked black men, that she had come to a
country where no clothes were to be had; and what should she do when hers
were worn out? They had a grant of land at Fort Peddie, and she dug
while her husband made baskets of cane, and carried them hundreds of
miles for sale; sleeping and eating in Caffre huts. ‘Yes, they are good,
honest people, and very well-bred (_anständig_), though they go as naked
as God made them. The girls are pretty and very delicate (_fein_), and
they think no harm of it, the dear innocents.’ If their cattle strayed,
it was always brought back; and they received every sort of kindness.
‘Yes, madam, it is shocking how people here treat the blacks. They call
quite an old man ‘Boy’, and speak so scornfully, and yet the blacks have
very nice manners, I assure you.’ When I looked at the poor little
wizened, pale, sickly Berliner, and fancied him a guest in a Caffre hut,
it seemed an odd picture. But he spoke as coolly of his long, lonely
journeys as possible, and seemed to think black friends quite as good as
white ones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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