Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when a little breeze
sprang up, and we walked down a few steps only to the wharf from which
the little steamers sail. It is about an hour, the tour round the lake,
or inner harbour--quite charming--all the shores covered with pretty
houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of flowers, sloping down
to the water's edge. One would never have dreamed of finding anything so
pretty and so _country_ in this very business-like place. Many of the
villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite far into the
water, and pretty boats and boat-houses. It seemed incredible to find
all this so close to the hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day.
The boat was quite full--principally business men going back to dine and
sleep at their country houses--all Germans--we were certainly the only
foreigners on the boat. It rather reminded me of Staten Island at
home--the afternoon boat with all the business men on board, only one
didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New York Bay, but a small
land-locked lake.
The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and we had time to
dress comfortably for our dinner. We didn't see the great port--divined
it only, with the forest of masts of all sizes.
Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host was some time in
Holland, and has some lovely specimens of blue Delft, and some fine
carved furniture. We had only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very
late, having been caught in the file of carriages coming from the
races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city, the Burgomaster,
all in black, a plain tight coat, with a white fraise, very stiff and
high around his neck, and a long gold chain. Also two of the principal
merchants of Hamburg--the Courcels were staying with one of them, as
they could get no rooms anywhere. The house was almost shut up--all the
family out of town, and a femme de charge to look after them. They said
the rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals at a
restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most hospitable.
W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about the Coronation,
and his impressions of all the people he had seen. The Burgomaster, too,
was very keen to hear what we thought about everything. He is a clever
old man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently think there is
much discontent in Russia, and some day there will be a great
upheaving--de Sancy told me that Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German
Emperor, told him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We
thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Richard says we all
used to sit up talking after every ceremony, and say how well we did
things.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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