Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday, and most interesting it
was. I went with Hilda and M. Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows
English, and is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We
had a long drive to the church through the city, and arrived only to
hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon, which was strong and practical. As
soon as the service was over we went down to the door and found him and
his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was to send away my
carriage, which had already attracted much attention with the tall
footman, velvet breeches, cockades, etc. He said he would never venture
into Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please share his
modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into his victoria, and Lecomte and
the curate walked close to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in
front, two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such a display
of municipal strength on my account, but he said it was necessary, he
much preferred having them, he was afraid people would crowd around us
and insist upon my buying something. The street was narrow, crowded with
people, as there was also a fair going on and everything imaginable
being sold (it is the one place in London where you can buy _one_ shoe
or _one_ stocking!). The people were almost all Jews, and I must say
they were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens. Some of the
women, girls too, with such sullen, scowling faces. We went at a foot's
pace (the only carriage), and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making
our way. Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him--"Good morning,
Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or three children ran up to him,
one a pretty little dark-eyed girl breathless to tell him she was in
church, though she came late. He was so nice to them all, called them
all by name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some of the
women to keep their husbands out of the drinking shops, and to wash
their children's faces. They say he does an immense amount of good down
there, but it must be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding
looking set of people. Some of the women came up rather close to the low
victoria and made comments on our garments. (We had dressed very simply
at his request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet with iris
on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.) "You have got a
beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at her umbrell!" The "umbrell"
excited much attention. I couldn't think why at first, as it was also
rather dark and plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the
handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I think the detective
kept his eye upon it too, as he came up rather close on my side. The
detective took Lecomte to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel,
where there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all through the
fair surrounded by these villainous faces (here and there a pretty,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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