Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we carried in our
arms), I don't know why, as the red carpet was decidedly damp and
muddyish in places. We finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we
were to breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to have a
little respite before dining in state with their people.
We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and silver plate, and
many Russian dishes. I didn't much like the looks of the soup, which was
clear, but had various things floating about on it--uncooked fish,
little black balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever
like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was very hungry),
when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, suggested I should
share his meal. He didn't like Russian cookery either, so he had
intrigued with a friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold
chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joyfully, and we had a
very good breakfast.
I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at table, and it was
very pleasant to sit down after those hours of standing. When the
breakfast was over, a little after two, we were conducted to the
Imperial dining-room, a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a
vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quantities of
paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured frescoes, most elaborate.
There were great buffets and tables covered with splendid gold and
silver plates, flagons, vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square,
raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all purple
velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the Imperial couple were to
dine with their faithful subjects.
We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes to see the beginning
of the meal, and then we retired, and the Emperor remained alone with
his people. Of course officers and officials of all descriptions were
standing close round the platform. There was a large table to the
left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were already
assembled--all the women in the national dress, high Kakoshnik, long
white lace spangled veil, and a sort of loose hanging sleeve which was
very effective. The ensemble was striking.
[Illustration: Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes]
Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets, which told us the
Royalties were approaching, and as they came near we heard the familiar
strains of the Polonaise from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar,"
which is always played when the Emperor and Empress appear. They came
with the usual escort of officers and chamberlains, smiling and bowing
graciously to all of us. They seated themselves (always in their cloth
of gold mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne chairs; a
small table was placed in front of them, and then the dinner began.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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