Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
After supper we went back to the ballroom for about half an hour. Then
the Court retired and we followed them at once. We got our carriages
fairly quickly. There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see
the grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we drive
through--lights everywhere, some high, high up in a queer little octagon
green tower--then a great doorway and staircase all lighted, with
quantities of servants and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough
pavement in a half dark court and under a little low dark gate with a
shrine and Madonna at one end--all so perfectly unmodern, and unlike
anything else.
* * * * *
I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but didn't finish, as I
was called off by some visits, and now I will try and send this off by
to-night's courier. We have had a nice afternoon looking at the Tresor.
Of course it was very hurried--it would take weeks to see everything.
The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. Almost all
the carriages are French--either given to the various Russian Sovereigns
by French Kings, or ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The
great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long voyages is
comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons imperiaux" in which we
travelled from Varsovie to Moscow.
Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, swords,
jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of all the old Emperors from
Ivan the Terrible down to the late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the
first Ivans and Peters are extraordinary--a sort of high fur cap
covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made--the jewels always
beautiful, such large stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. There
were vitrines full of splendid gold and silver cups and dishes, presents
to the Emperor from all the different provinces.
They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent things given to
him, but we have not seen them yet. We met various people also going
through the Museum, and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know
which one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). It seemed
funny to go back to the old Roman days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in
the Malatesta Palace. He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies
and the standing--however, to-night is the end, with our dinner at the
Palace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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