About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill near Moscow from which Napoleon had his first view of the city. There was no sun, which was a pity, as all the colour of Moscow makes it so original and different from everything else--however the city looked mysterious and poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues going the same way--Nigra always in his "Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts. Nigra came and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. They offered us a great many things, but we declined experiments, and kept on saying "Tchai" (which means tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W. he should taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all drink--prince and peasant--but I think W. did not like it much. Nigra was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to Petersburg, and knows everybody. He says Russian Society is rather fermee, unless you take their ways and hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres, every evening. It is quite informal--a cup of tea, very often music, and really interesting talk. He says the women are remarkably intelligent and cultivated--en masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American women. When he came back from America he said he had _never_ met a stupid American woman. We had a pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home again. We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, Prince Waldemar, in an ordinary open carriage (harnessed Russian fashion--the three horses) and with no escort nor _apparent_ policemen of any kind. She looked very well and smiling, and so young. There was not much movement on the road--a few carriages and peasant's carts. As soon as we got into Moscow we fell at once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy many people have already gone. The streets were not nearly so full.