Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of one of the rooms.
It rushes past like the sea, so broad and strong, with very fair waves,
a splendid river. We stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms,
and then went on for a general view of the city. It is very handsome,
but has no particular cachet (except the Neva) at this season of the
year--one ought to see it in winter when the river is frozen and the
real winter life begins. It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to
the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing as a mass,
but the architecture not very striking--afterwards to the fortress and
church of St. Peter and St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried--to
Peter the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building), drove
a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh breeze from the river
was most welcome and invigorating after the heat and dust of Moscow.
There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all kinds. We think
of going by steamer to Stockholm, all along the coast of Finland. They
tell us it is a beautiful journey, particularly at this time of year,
with the long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we decide,
as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean (they say the boats on
the rivers Volga, etc., are something terrible). We wound up in the
Perspective Nevsky--the great shopping street, but didn't get out of the
carriage, merely drove through. The shops look handsome and the vitrines
well arranged, just like Paris. There was very little animation in the
streets and very few carriages. They tell us many people have already
gone away for the summer.
We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were finishing Admiral
Jaures came in to suggest that we should dine at Peterhof to-morrow
afternoon. He says it is a very nice excursion--a short hour on the
boat, and we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started again in
the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La Pointe"--the great
rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg. It is a long hour's drive,
crossing quantities of small islands all connected by bridges, and one
finally arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of the
Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, the people get down
and walk about, or sit on the benches at the water's edge--a regular
salon--in summer one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there.
The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the Gulf is grey,
the banks low, no trees--but the air was delicious.
We met almost all our Moscow colleagues--also Princess Lise Troubetzkoi,
who was delighted to see W. and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted
us to go back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and I was
tired, having been going all day--evidently that is what people do, as
several of our colleagues too asked us, and expressed great surprise at
our wanting to go home so early.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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