Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), where we go on
shore for some hours, and I will write a little. I have a nice straw
arm-chair on deck (the sail shades me), a table with books, papers, etc.
We embarked at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about 4--saw the
Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks English quite well, and who
is much pleased to have us on his boat. He went down to the cabin with
us, which is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and
a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens into the ladies'
cabin, where he had also arranged the end near our cabin for us--two
arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adelaide has a nice state-room just
opposite--also Richard. There were not many people on board--and he said
he hadn't many passengers, chiefly men.
We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the Coutoulys', who
have a nice apartment directly on the river. It is so broad and swift
one feels almost as if one was on the sea-shore. There is much passing
all the time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where the
boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we went back to the boat.
Jaures was there with some of his young men, and Benckendorff, who came
to say a last good-bye this time. We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we
should like very much to do something for him. He was untiring and
devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow--never tired, always taking
a great deal of trouble to see that we were well taken care of, and
helping us in every way. I found three or four handsome bouquets in the
cabin--one from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor of our
hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm for rooms for us. We
arrive Sunday morning--have three nights at sea. Adelaide is quite
excited at the prospect of a real voyage "en mer."
We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we were passing Cronstadt.
We have made a very nice arrangement for our meals. The idea of a
table-d'hote with all the people who are on board (many more than I
thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our meals half an hour
before the others at a small table in the dining-room. It is a most
satisfactory arrangement, and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while
the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely evening--the sea
absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly needed my cloak. We sat late on
deck. They brought us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to
be the favourite drink here.
The passengers all came up after their supper. They were quiet
enough--all had tea, punch, and cigars, and a great many played cards.
The men look like commis-voyageurs, or small shopkeepers--almost all, I
should think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four English
women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells me, going to Stockholm
and Christiania.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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