Letters of Anton Chekhov to His Family and FriendsChekhov, Anton Pavlovich
General
Letters of Anton Chekhov to His Family and Friends
Chekhov, Anton Pavlovich
Authors, Russian -- 19th century -- Correspondence; Chekhov, Anton Pavlovich, 1860-1904 -- Correspondence
We drove to Baikal along the bank of the Angara, which rises out of Lake
Baikal and flows into the Yenissey. Look at the map. The banks are
picturesque. Mountains and mountains, and dense forests on the mountains.
The weather was exquisite still, sunny and warm; as I drove I felt I was
exceptionally well; I felt so happy that I cannot describe it. It was
perhaps the contrast after the stay at Irkutsk, and because the scenery on
the Angara is like Switzerland. It is something new and original. We drove
along the river bank, came to the mouth of the river, and turned to the
left; then we came upon the bank of Lake Baikal, which in Siberia is called
the sea. It is like a mirror. The other side, of course, is out of sight;
it is ninety versts away. The banks are high, steep, stony, and covered
with forest, to right and to left there are promontories which jut into the
sea like Au-dag or the Tohtebel at Feodosia. It’s like the Crimea. The
station of Listvenitchnaya lies at the water’s edge, and is strikingly like
Yalta: if the houses were white it would be exactly like Yalta. Only there
are no buildings on the mountains, as they are too overhanging and it is
impossible to build on them.
We have taken a little barn of a lodging that reminds one of any of the
Kraskovsky summer villas. Just outside the window, two or three yards from
the wall, is Lake Baikal. We pay a rouble a day. The mountains, the
forests, the mirror-like Baikal are all poisoned for me by the thought that
we shall have to stay here till the fifteenth. What are we to do here? What
is more, we don’t know what there is for us to eat. The inhabitants feed
upon nothing but garlic. There is neither meat nor fish. They have given us
no milk, but have promised it. For a little white loaf they demanded
sixteen kopecks. I bought some buckwheat and a piece of smoked pork, and
asked them to make a thin porridge of it: it was not nice, but there was
nothing to be done, I had to eat it. All the evening we hunted about the
village to find someone who would sell us a hen, and found no one.... But
there is vodka. The Russian is a great pig. If you ask him why he doesn’t
eat meat and fish he justifies himself by the absence of transport, ways
and communications, and so on, and yet vodka is to be found in the remotest
villages and as much of it as you please. And yet one would have supposed
that it would have been much easier to obtain meat and fish than vodka,
which is more expensive and more difficult to transport.... Yes, drinking
vodka must be much more interesting than fishing in Lake Baikal or rearing
cattle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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