Letters of Anton Chekhov to His Family and FriendsChekhov, Anton Pavlovich
General
Letters of Anton Chekhov to His Family and Friends
Chekhov, Anton Pavlovich
Authors, Russian -- 19th century -- Correspondence; Chekhov, Anton Pavlovich, 1860-1904 -- Correspondence
Waking yesterday morning and looking out of the carriage window I felt an
aversion for nature: the earth was white, trees covered with hoar-frost,
and a regular blizzard pursuing the train. Now isn’t it revolting? Isn’t it
disgusting? ... I have no goloshes, I pulled on my big boots, and on my way
to the refreshment-room for coffee I made the whole Ural region smell of
tar. And when we got to Ekaterinburg there was rain, snow, and hail. I put
on my leather coat. The cabs are something inconceivable, wretched, dirty,
drenched, without springs, the horse’s four legs straddling, huge hoofs,
gaunt spines ... the droshkies here are a clumsy parody of our britchkas. A
tattered top is put on to a britchka, that is all. And the more exactly I
describe the cabman here and his vehicle, the more it will seem like a
caricature. They drive not on the middle of the road where it is jolting,
but near the gutter where it is muddy and soft. All the cabmen are like
Dobrolyubov.
In Russia all the towns are alike. Ekaterinburg is exactly the same as Perm
or Tula. The note of the bells is magnificent, velvety. I stopped at the
American Hotel (not at all bad), and at once sent word of my arrival to A.
M. S., telling him I meant to stay in my hotel room for two days.
The people here inspire the newcomer with a feeling akin to horror. They
are big-browed, big-jawed, broad-shouldered fellows with huge fists and
tiny eyes. They are born in the local iron foundries, and at their birth a
mechanic officiates instead of an accoucheur. A specimen comes into your
room with a samovar or a bottle of water, and you expect him every minute
to murder you. I stand aside. This morning just such a one came in,
big-browed, big-jawed, huge, towering up to the ceiling, seven feet across
the shoulders and wearing a fur coat too.
Well, I thought, this one will certainly murder me. It appeared that this
was our relation A. M. S. We began to talk. He is a member of the local
Zemstvo and manager of his cousin’s mill, which is lighted by electric
light; he is editor of the _Ekaterinburg Week_ which is under the
censorship of the police-master Baron Taube, is married and has two
children, is growing rich and getting fat and elderly, and lives in a
“substantial way.” He says he has no time to be bored. He advised me to
visit the museum, the factories, and the mines; I thanked him for his
advice. He invited me to tea to-morrow evening; I invited him to dine with
me. He did not invite me to dinner, and altogether did not press me very
much to visit him. From this mother may conclude that the relations’ heart
is not softened.... Relations are a race in which I take no interest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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