Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
At six o’clock precisely the malle-postes for every part of France began
to leave, one after the other: that for Lyons came up; our baggage all
in, our seats selected and arranged for us, in ten seconds we were in
our places, and before the word adieu was fairly beyond my lips we were
off at full speed. We took the route by Burgundy, passed Sens in the
night, breakfasted at six next morning at Auxerre, and during the day
should have passed through Autun, but I believe we did not; passed
Châlons-sur-Saône at dusk, and arrived at Lyons at six precisely the
next morning,--a rather fatiguing ride, but I saved much time over the
diligence, which would have been even more fatiguing. The mail-coach
takes four passengers only, three inside and one with the conducteur; it
is drawn by seven horses guided by a postillion, in boots almost as high
as himself, and the horses are changed every five miles or thereabouts.
The time it took to change the horses I believe never exceeded a minute.
I timed them once or twice by the watch, and we were moving again before
the expiration of the minute. The country through which we passed was
more fertile and in better cultivation than what I saw of Normandy; it
was beautiful but monotonous, except the latter part, which grew quite
picturesque as we approached the Rhone and the rivers that fall into
it....
Lyons is finely situated just above the confluence of the Saône and the
Rhone, occupying the space between the two rivers and also the other
bank of the former. It has two beautiful and very steep hills, between
which the Saône winds, which add much to its appearance....
April 25.--I broke off here some time ago, and left a space which I
intended to fill up the first spare moment, by telling you what I saw at
Lyons; what kind of a town it is; how I might possibly have seen Mont
Blanc from it had it not been a rainy day; how I called on Seringe,[89]
saw the little botanical garden, took notice of many little
contrivances, particularly the way he keeps the aquatic plants wet; how
he went with me to the Académie of Lyons, the branch of the University
of Paris.... I could also describe the manufacture of velvet, which I
also saw, but for all these things time does not permit; a good
opportunity of sending to New York occurring to-morrow morning. So I
must leave the hiatus....
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