Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
There is nothing very grand in the scenery of the Rhone from
Lyons to this place. The upper portion is very much like the Hudson
between New York and the Highlands, but I think scarcely as fine, if you
make due allowance for the effect of the old villages, etc. (not half so
comfortable as ours surely, but much better adapted to improve the
beauty of the landscape), with now and then a gray ruin, which is a vast
improvement. But from Tournon quite to Avignon, the scenery quite
surpasses the Hudson, and exhibits such variety, moreover, that you are
charmed continually: now bold and magnificent even; again, picturesque,
particularly where the basaltic rocks, for it is wholly a volcanic
country, form parapets like the Palisades, but much more curious and
diversified, the more friable material being worn away in places,
leaving columns and salient portions in all fantastic shapes. And again,
especially in the lower portion, we see the hills widely separated,
leaving most beautiful broad valleys between, with high mountains for a
distant background. At St. Esprit we passed under the curious old bridge
built in the eleventh century, which is still in as perfect a state
apparently as if finished but yesterday. It is three thousand feet long,
and is said to be the longest bridge in Europe; it consists of
twenty-six arches, and each abutment has also a little arch above it. We
passed other very pretty or striking views of which I should like
vastly to have good prints, but I do not know whether any person has of
late been illustrating the Rhone. But I must come to a close, not to
fatigue you longer. I arrived at the most excellent Hôtel du Palais
Royal (recommended by Bentham) just in time for the table d’hôte at
seven o’clock, and after dinner sallied out, with a guide to conduct me
to see Requien,[90] to whom Bentham had given me a letter. I found him a
prompt man, and in almost ten words we settled my plan for to-morrow,
which is to start in a cabriolet for Vaucluse at five o’clock in the
morning, arrive at eight, spend two hours, breakfast, and return here by
one o’clock; spend the afternoon and evening in seeing the most
interesting objects in town, looking at his collections, his pictures,
etc., etc. What would you give to see Vaucluse? I have many doubts
whether it will equal my expectations, which are raised by the
description; according to the account it must be very curious and
strange, apart from the associations of the place, which here pass for
little with me, as I feel no interest at all in Petrarch or Laura,
whoever she may have been.
AVIGNON, Friday evening, April 19, half past eight o’clock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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