Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Rose on Wednesday (yesterday) morning at half past four; took diligence
at five, arrived at Nîmes at half past ten; had time to take another
survey of the Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and so forth; took
breakfast at half past eleven; off again at twelve, passed in sight of
Beaucaire and Tarascon; crossed the Rhone, here a large river, near its
mouth at Arles, a curious old town which has nothing modern about it,
and thus was again in Provence. The court of Constantine the Great was
for several years at Arles, which was celebrated for its refinement, and
the women and children are said to be still handsome and graceful.
Certainly nearly all I saw, young or old, were comely, and many
handsome. They are all brunettes, and not a little sunburnt; but their
black hair, large dark eyes, and long eyelashes appear to advantage. We
were soon on the road again, traveled over an immense plain, bordered on
the north by a long ridge of mountains, composed of naked jagged
rocks,--a picturesque range, in fine contrast to the fertile plain from
which it abruptly rises. They are, I believe, the mountains of the
Durance. At length the plain became as barren as the mountains; night
came on, and rather late in the evening we reached Aix, took our
supper.... I slept pretty well, and when I awoke we were in sight of the
town and bay of Marseilles, the latter superb as seen from the elevated
place of our view; but the town did not present such an imposing view as
I had been taught to expect....
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