Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
There is or was a British chapel here, belonging to the British embassy,
but I could find nothing of it, and so spent the Sabbath by myself,
which was as well perhaps. At seven in the evening our boat left, and I
was obliged to continue my voyage. I wrapped myself in my cloak and
slept soundly and quietly, and when we reached the harbor of Leghorn at
five o’clock awoke refreshed, vigorous, and in the finest spirits. I
obtained a light breakfast on board; at seven o’clock was ashore; in
five minutes more was in a cabriolet and on the road to Pisa, distant
from here fourteen Tuscan miles, which make, I should judge, about ten
English ones. My bargain was that I should be driven to Pisa in two
hours at farthest, have two hours and a half there, and be returned
again safe and sound before two o’clock. This was easily accomplished;
the journey being made in less than two hours, I had the more time
there, quite as much, indeed, as I wished. It is a great comfort to be
able to leave a place the moment you have done with it, and so avoid
being sated with it. I had a letter and a little parcel from Mirbel to
deliver to old Savi,[94] the professor of botany in the university; so I
was dropped at the door of the university, once so famous, but now far
from formidable. I found Savi, gave my letter, was introduced to his two
sons, the one professor of natural history, the other assistant
professor of botany, who showed me through the museum, which was
interesting, the botanic garden, which was not much; I then set out to
see the four chief lions, the Duomo or cathedral, the Baptistery, the
Campanile or famous leaning tower, and the Campo Santo, which all stand
near each other and are soon dispatched. In fact they are the separate
parts of a cathedral, the Campanile being, as the name denotes, the
bell-tower, and the Campo Santo the burial-place....
The vine in Tuscany is not kept close to the ground as in France, but is
trained in arbors and festoons along the borders of wheat-fields, and
when their leaves appear must add very much to the beauty of the
country. One here could sit under the shade of his vine, which would be
out of the question in France. But the boat is leaving the harbor. On
the right we can dimly discern the northern extremity of Corsica. Elba
we shall pass in the night, and sometime in the course of the morning be
landed in Civita Vecchia. I have made the acquaintance of an English
clergyman of warm piety, who is in ill health, who has been obliged to
reside for several years in Nice in the winter, and at Interlaken in
Switzerland in the summer, at both of which places he preaches
regularly. He has traveled in Greece, Turkey, and Asia Minor, and passed
much time with our missionaries there, of whom he speaks in the warmest
terms. His name is Hartley. We shall go on in company to Rome.
ROME, 1st May, 1839, Wednesday evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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