Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
I am very well satisfied with my visit to Rome. In the brief space of
time I spent there I saw everything I wished except the pope himself,
and I believe I had a glimpse of him; one statue of Michael Angelo’s,
which I only learned about when it was too late; the Catacombs, where
the early Christians used to conceal themselves, which are some miles
off; the monument of Cecilia Metella, which is not handsome, but is
immortalized by three or four singularly sweet stanzas in “Childe
Harold;” and the Basilica of St. Paul, which is some distance out of the
city, and was nearly destroyed by fire about ten years ago. This is a
very small list compared with what I have seen, so I am quite content. I
wish you could see Rome; there is so much that you would enjoy in the
highest degree, and it is laying up a fund to be enjoyed afterwards as
long as you live.
It is now just sunset, and the air is remarkably balmy,--a mild
sea-breeze, just enough to fan you. And let me tell you, however, as to
Italian skies and sunsets that they are not a bit superior to our own.
You may enjoy from your own parlor windows finer sunsets every clear day
in summer than I have yet seen in Italy; though they certainly are very
near ours. It is only to those who are accustomed to British clouds and
fogs that they are remarkable.
The peripatetic grinders of music upon hand-organs so common in all our
towns are usually Italians, and I supposed that street music here was of
much the same kind. This is a mistake. I have not seen such a thing in
Italy or the south of France. You have universally the harp, commonly
two players in concert, and very frequently a violin also for
accompaniment, and the music is always creditable. At Avignon, the very
land of troubadours, we were serenaded at dinner with a concert of
harps, guitars, etc., but when they called for the coppers we found,
shame to this degenerate age, that the troubadours were all women, and
of the most unromantic appearance possible. The patois of all this part
of France and of Piedmont, however, is the same as the language in which
the trouvères are written, and one who understands the patois as now
spoken can read the former without difficulty.
The Italian language, is very soft and musical, far more pleasant to the
ear than the deep nasal tones of the French.
JOURNAL.
FLORENCE, May 9, Thursday evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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