Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
And yet I feel myself well repaid for all my fatigue. To say nothing of
the prospect opening out wider and grander as I ascended, I had from the
summit a magnificent mountain panorama which it was well worth the labor
to see; the summits of more than one peak white and brilliant with
perpetual snow and ice. The most stupendous of all is the Thorstein or
Dachstein, which closes the view to the south, with its immense glaciers
of the most dazzling whiteness, from which numerous steep pinnacles rise
like spires, towering high above all surrounding objects, illuminated by
the rays of the setting sun long after all other objects are left in the
shade. The dark lake of Hallstadt was distinctly seen, appearing to
reach up to its very base. I could not distinguish the village which is
hidden under the cliffs at that end of the lake, where from November to
February the inhabitants do not see the sun, they are so shut in by high
mountains. Four other lakes were in full view, two of them lying almost
beneath my feet.
And then imagine my pleasure at collecting alpine plants for the first
time, some of them in full blossom under the very edge of a snowbank. I
filled my portfolio with Soldanella, Rhododendron, Primula Auricula,
Ranunculus Thora, and another with white flowers, etc., etc. I am sorry
to say that in my eagerness I have left my knife, last relic of the
Expedition, and so long my trusty companion, somewhere on the top of the
mountain. Sunday was at least a day of bodily rest, for I did not rise
until past ten o’clock, and hobbled out but once beyond the limits of my
hotel. I was obliged to leave, however, late in the evening, about half
past ten, when the eilwagen, which comes but twice a week, arrived from
Gratz on its way to Salzburg; and here I found myself at six o’clock
this morning; a rainy day, and a very dull town, with nothing but its
fortress and its exceedingly beautiful and romantic situation to make it
interesting. There are many objects of great interest in the
neighborhood, but this rainy day prevents any distant excursion; my
place is taken for Munich for to-morrow morning, and not even the
inducements of “the most beautiful region in all Germany,” as it is
called, not even the sublimities of the Berchtesgaden and the Königsee,
which are but fifteen miles off, shall detain me longer. I begin to look
with expectation toward the end of my journey, and have already in my
plans shortened it a little. I have looked about the old churches and
buildings of this town, and am waiting now for it to clear up that I
may climb the Mönchsberg, and enjoy the prospect that is said to be so
fine. At midday I had hopes of a pleasant afternoon, but it is now
raining harder than ever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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