Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
I arrived in this capital of Bavaria last evening at eleven o’clock,
after a tedious, though not uninteresting ride of seventeen hours. The
day proved a fine one, and after leaving Salzburg through the curious
tunnel that penetrates the Mönchsberg we came abruptly into the open
country; and as the mists gradually rose from the sides of the mountains
and we ascended some small hills, I obtained some most beautiful and
picturesque views of the surrounding mountains. The Stauffenberg, which
stood between us and Berchtesgaden, a magnificent mountain, was for a
long time the most prominent object; backed by the more distant central
portions of the Salzburg Alps, all white with snow. It was only as I
left this place that I could appreciate the beauty of its situation,
and I felt a momentary regret that I had not stayed a day longer and
visited Berchtesgaden. These fine mountains and those of the Tyrol (the
more western portion of the same chain) were in full view during the
whole journey, filling the southern horizon, while we journeyed through
a rather level country; for the whole of Bavaria south of the Danube is
a great plain, stretching from that river to these mountains that skirt
its southern border. It is an inclined plain, since Munich, though in a
perfectly flat region, is about sixteen hundred feet above the level of
the sea. We crossed the frontier in an hour after we started, where our
baggage was slightly and very civilly examined, and our passports viséd
by the Bavarian police. We passed two pretty lakes, but no place of
interest except Wasserburg, situated in a picturesque dell on the river
Inn. For companions I had a Dane, who spoke a little English
surprisingly well, and was very agreeable; a German, who spoke a little
French; and a Frenchman, who had come up the Danube from Constantinople,
and who tired us all with the continual clack of his very disagreeable
voice. I took up my abode at the Schwarzer Adler, a very comfortable and
quite cheap hotel; slept pretty well; rose early this morning to take a
look at the town, which within these last twenty years has become a
magnificent capital; saw many of the public buildings,--that is, their
exterior,--churches, and squares; went to the office of the police and
obtained the required permission de séjour; and then went to the Royal
Cabinet to find Martius, for whom I had three letters of introduction.
He is a small man, not so tall as I, quite thin, but rather
good-looking, apparently fifty years old, but his hair may be
prematurely gray. He seems to have his hands very full of business, but
he received me with cordiality; took me to the library and the cabinet
of natural history, which are in the same building, told me to amuse
myself till one (the universal dinner hour), and meet him at the Botanic
Garden at three, and afterwards spend the evening at his house. The
cabinets here are in an old, rather inconvenient building, once a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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