Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
I take the first leisure hour to resume my account. I find that I must
have walked about thirty-four miles yesterday, making due allowance for
the windings of the path. I commenced at five o’clock, reached Engelberg
at nine, where I rested till half past eleven, and reached Meyringen, as
I said before, at half past seven. The journey from Stanz is through a
narrow but fertile valley inclosed by high and picturesque mountains for
about seven miles, when the valley contracts, the mountains on each side
rise to a great height into sharp and bare peaks, leaving barely room
for the Aar to descend between. It forms, I may say, one continual
cataract from Engelberg to this point. Before this pass is reached I had
gone by some other mountains which were very remarkable; among them the
Brisenstock, a ridge of rock like the upturned edge of a hatchet, some
6,000 feet high, and throwing up from one extremity a column of rock
like a vast obelisk. The road, which is carried at considerable
elevation along one side of this narrow valley, is not difficult, and
exhibits the whole way the most sublime scenery. The Wallenstock rises
on one side to the height of above 8,000 feet; and those on the other
side are not less lofty. Presently the shining summit of the Titlis
rises before you, surrounded by others scarcely less elevated. The
Titlis is the highest of the Unterwalden Alps, 10,710 feet. You then
arrive at a place where the Aar forms a series of cataracts in the
bottom of the gorge, nearly a thousand feet below you; the opposite
mountain exhibits an almost perpendicular wall of rock, nearly 6,000
feet high, and a little cataract formed by the melting snow above falls
from the top to the bottom. Soon I entered the little valley of
Engelberg, the most beautiful and picturesque I have seen, probably the
finest in Switzerland; at least that of Meyringen and this of
Grindelwald, where I am now writing, are not to be compared with it. I
only wonder it is so little known. I think it not improbable that I am
the first American that has visited it. It is far out of the ordinary
routes, and though easily accessible with chars from Stanz, yet the
three passes that lead out of it are excessively difficult footpaths. It
is a green, sunshiny valley, having perhaps eighty acres of plain, but
very rich pastures rise up the mountain-sides to some distance; it is
entirely shut in by the high mountains that rise on every side; the
Titlis rising abruptly on the south within a few yards of the village,
and sending down its avalanches in the spring close to the houses. But
the glaciers are so situated as to send their summer avalanches in the
other direction, so that the hamlet is not in danger; the other
mountains toward the south have the glaciers on their summits, but the
peaks on the other sides present naked precipices. The Engelberg, from
which the hamlet is named (angel-mountain) is a lofty mountain shaped
like a slender cone, with the apex cut off obliquely.
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