Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
main stream formed a succession of beautiful cascades; the mountains on
each side very high, and mostly perpendicular faces of rock, and down
these a great multitude of cascades of all sizes fell, some of them
springing 500 feet at a leap; others, falling from much greater height
over the rocks, looked like long skeins of yarn, if you will pardon the
simile, dangling in the air. It must be much like the valley of the
Lauterbrunnen, according to the description; but I think the latter
cannot excel it. I hope to know to-morrow. A shower drove me into a
miserable châlet, the highest one inhabited at this season, where I
found a young man, who dwelt there for the summer, with his herd of
goats, and his brother, a young lad of fifteen, who had come up from
Meyringen to bring him some food, etc., and was just about to return, I
drank about a quart of milk fresh from the goat, and found it excellent.
When it stopped raining the youngster and I started together; I
transferred my knapsack to his shoulders, and a franc and a half to his
pocket, to the great satisfaction of both parties. He proved a very
useful little fellow, though I could not understand much of what he
said; he showed me some waterfalls and curious things that I should
otherwise have missed. With the true spirit of his nation, ever ready to
improve an opportunity, he told me he had a brother who spoke French,
who would be my guide for the next day. It rained most of the way, but I
was compensated for the partial wetting by the views of the most
beautiful waterfalls, which fell into the valley in great profusion from
the high precipices on each side. I could sometimes see twenty at one
view. After a long and weary descent we came at last near the bottom,
where this valley, and two others almost at the same point, fell into
the main valley of the Aar, and I could look at the same moment up four
deep and wild mountain valleys. Then skirting along the side of the
mountain, we soon descended to Meyringen, deep in the main valley of the
Aar, with two fine cascades behind it, and another very fine one, the
cascade of the Reichenbach, on the opposite side of the valley. Glad
enough was I when we reached the door of the humble auberge, and great
was the havoc I made with the eatables which the kind landlady provided
in abundance and of excellent quality. I sat down on a sofa in my
chamber to read a little, but fell asleep instantly; slept until eleven,
then took my bed and slept until half past seven in the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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